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Routes in Big Thompson Canyon Ice

??? T,TR WI4-5 M5-6
Approach Gully T WI2
Disney Land WI2-3 PG13
Hahn's Solo T WI3-
Hidden Agenda T WI2
Horrooooooooooooom T WI3
Ice Age T WI2+
Ice Station Zebra T WI3-
Lower Falls T WI2
Novacaine Game T WI2+
Once in a Blue Moon T,TR WI2+ PG13
Peace Break T WI4-5 M4+ R
Playground WI2+
Sharky's Machine T WI3 PG13
Treebeard T WI3-
Unknown T WI4
Upper Falls T WI2
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 90 ft
FA: Steve McCorkel and Mike Kleker
Page Views: 2,830 total, 21/month
Shared By: Steve McCorkel on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

An ice, moss, snow ramp, leads to a smear that leads to a mixed dihedral.

Location

Approach as for the route The Coal Room. Very fickle. Seen after the tub, before the boulder overhanging a paved, parking pullout on the left. Approach with a cool but short drip on the vertical road cut down canyon from the parking. Traverse left above the road cut, and then up and left on snow to the base of the left leaning ramp below the smear.

Protection

Small and very small cams, wires, slider nuts; and at least a #0.5 and #1 Camalot; one or two stubbies. Two-bolt anchor up and right.

Photos

kyle kingrey
Loveland
kyle kingrey   Loveland
Still in as of 1-24-07. Jan 24, 2007
kyle kingrey
Loveland
kyle kingrey   Loveland
Peace Break looks awesome-Way to go fellows, Climbing in BTC is amazing and when things like this come in it is a rare treat. Hats off to the both of you.
Allen.....we missed our window for the FA!! There's still more to be had though.

Aaron-continue to not recommend the BTC. For years, folks have been overlooking and bashing the BTC. This is OK. To a few of us this area is a beautiful place to climb and explore. Jan 22, 2007
Two brief comments: 1) Steve did an excellent job leading this. It is sporty with pro not as good as most would like. Be careful! 2) Though neither long nor strenuous, the climbing at the crux is more technical than either Secret Probation or Little Thang in Vail. M5 seems a bit light for the grade. (The pro at the crux is good.) Enjoy! Jan 20, 2007
Hats off to McCorkle and Kleker. I have eyed this rarely formed gem since 1991. It has only come in 2-3 times since and very thin, but this year is a banner year. It was on my list for next week to get at if it lasted. Correct me if I'm wrong, basically this is the rock route Coal Room with ice smeared over it, correct??? Aaron, if you don't want to recommend the Big T ice to others, that's fine with me. These rare formed gems can be saved for the locals if you disuade others to come try them.
allen Jan 19, 2007