Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: KC Baum, solo, december 1990
Page Views: 624 total · 4/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Jan 18, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

The climb starts in a right facing dihedral on an overhanging thin hands splitter. Climb the thin hands past a short bulge, and gain a large ledge. Clip the first bolt, grab a rest, and then continue up the slightly overhanging arete/face to a large ledge, clipping 2 more bolts on the way.

Set up an anchor and bring up your second.

Descend via a chain around a tree about 30 feet right of the route.

Location

The start is about 200 feet left of Cool Breeze. It starts at a thin hands overhanging splitter in a right facing dihedral. Bolts on the face are visible from below.

Protection

Camalots: 2x #1s, plus 3 quickdraws, possibly 1 #2.

Note: two large pieces, #4s, are essential for building an anchor.

Photos

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Skyeler Congdon
his van
 
Skyeler Congdon   his van
 
The friable holds on the arete section of this climb make Dervish a spooky and, well kinda shitty climb. But I guess that's the Monument for ya.... Apr 21, 2008
Alex Garhart  
 
I thought this route was fun and unique. The rail that goes up the arete is pretty varnished and solid, didn't notice any thing loose except on the ledge before the sport section. Apr 19, 2009
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
 
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
 
To make this route better, skip the bad sport climbing and hit up the chimney on the right side, in my opinion anyways. Sep 6, 2014