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Judgement Seat

5.10a, Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 36 votes
FA: Burns & Webster - 1975
W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > Southern Pillar > Southern Pillar - W Side

Description

A cool feature and good, burly climbing.  Originally done as 4 pitches, it is commonly done in 2.

P1: Begin by climbing up the right side of the slot/cave until one can undercling a flake to a sloping ledge and a chimney. Head up the chimney (the judgement seat) and out the top (awkward) to a crack and a large ledge. Continue up to the ledge under the large roof and a  two-bolt anchor (shared with Roy Gap Chimneys).

P2: Step back out right and climb up a crack to a corner.  Continue up the corner, move left and up, then back right and a final corner to the top.  

There is a bolted anchor on the ledge at the top shared with Revive.  Two rappels will get you to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brendan on Judgement Seat.
[Hide Photo] Brendan on Judgement Seat.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Felix Duvallet
 
[Hide Comment] This is an awesome climb! It is possible to climb all the way to the anchors of Roy Gap Chimneys (P2) in one long pitch if you are careful about rope drag.

A little more description of the route: After the stemming/undercling start, you head up and left into a triangular alcove with a steep crack just above it (there is some fixed gear here). Climb the crack and pull a small roof into a really cool dihedral. Keep climbing up and left to a bolted belay just below the smooth roof. Jun 11, 2012