Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Beatty & Woodruff - 1978
Page Views: 3,172 total · 22/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007 with updates from Jack Beatty
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Possibly the best route on the wall! Begin 10 meters left of Conn's East Direct and climb a thin, right-facing, right-arching flake until it ends. Bust some cruxy moves up past the flake to the first of two bolts. Continue up thin face climbing and a seam to a roof which can be breached to the left.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Actually, it's a bit to the right of Conn's East regular start, not the direct start. Conn's East Direct is way farther up Broadway, near Pollux. Mar 14, 2009
Nate R
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Nate R   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Got all the moves on toprope the other day (dammit I should have jumped on on lead, oh well.) Since I was toproping, I went right around the roof, which turns into about 20 feet of face climbing that gets REALLY thin right at the end.

Anybody ever go that way? Could be a cool variation, you could probably slam in a bolt from stance up there (it'd be freaky without it). Sep 19, 2011
Allison Quirk
San Diego, CA
  5.11c
Allison Quirk   San Diego, CA
  5.11c
Best route on the wall. Do not do in direct sunlight and bring micronuts ... used them in several places :) Oct 23, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.11c
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.11c
Great route but not as good as Terra Firma due to the bolts. Nov 12, 2014