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Routes in The Picnic Wall

A Little Help from My Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bag Lunch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Busload of Faith S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Catwalk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gape Index S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paradigm Shift S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ransom Demand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turnstyles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: T. Broderick, M. Nad
Page Views: 158 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Jan 18, 2007 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Crawdad Canyon is private property. Details

Description

This route is given a classic rating in the guidebook. It is an excellent beginner lead on big edges. Definitely one of the best moderates at Crawdad.

Location

This is the far left route of the Picnic Wall with a plaque. About 25 feet left from Gape Index, up a dirty slope. Busload of Faith and Catwalk start in almost the same place, just right from a foot-wide gully. But while Busload goes virtually straight up, Catwalk immediately aims a bit right. Next strongly right toward the arete on the right side of the face. Then the obvious esthetic line for the upper half is to finish directly on the arete (but climbing to the left of the arete is interesting also).It starts around the left side of a bulge and progresses to the right through the first 4 bolts.

Protection

Six bolts to the anchors.

Photos

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kenr
  5.7
kenr  
  5.7
Busload of Faith and Catwalk start in almost the same place, just right from a foot-wide gully. But while Busload goes virtually straight up, Catwalk immediately aims a bit right, then strongly right toward the arete on the right side of the face.

The obvious esthetic line is to do the whole upper half directly on the arete. There's also an interesting way to step left higher up.

Top-Roping offers another different (half) line for the upper section. When reach the bolt in the middle of the traverse, start heading up and climb between Busload of Faith and the right-side arete, without ever going near the arete. Elegant moves, no harder than the upper main route on the arete.

Top-Roping: Can also belay "Gape Index" from the Catwalk top anchor (or the new left start variation for Gape Index). The hard moves on Gape Index the first 10-15 feet, so after climbing Catwalk on top-rope, could lower in to try only the (fun easier) upper two-thirds of Gape Index. Feb 19, 2016