Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 126
FA: B Crowther and B Gilmore 1959/1960
> Whitehorse Ledge
> 7. The Slabs
A truly classic slab climb, loved, respected and feared.A great place to hone your slab climbing skills.Sees many ascents and some epics on a nice weekend so try to avoid the crowds and make sure you are ready for the adventure.
Start from the launch pad.
Pitch one (5.2): Moves up toward the arch of standard route breaking left to a two ringbolt anchor, even with the bottom of the arch.
Pitch two (5.7): Move right and up past two bolts along a steep ramp. Belay on small gear in a crack with an old pin, or traverse left to a two bolt anchor on Interloper.
Pitch three (5.5): The mental crux for most.
Straight up and a little right climbing past 1 bolt on this 100ft pitch to a 2 bolt anchor at some large solution pockets. The climbing is moderate but feels harder due to the smooth rock and long runout.
P 2 and P3 can be combined with a 70m rope.
Pitch 4 (5.5): move right to a pretty left facing corner with a nice crack, up this to gain a dike and shortly after, a comfortable stance at a slanting corner. Belay from here with gear, lower is better. (see photo "P4 Belay")
Pitch 5 (5.6): A couple ways to do this one. You can move up and right across smooth slab over an overlap to a slippery dike or stay left of the dike in a good grove then traversing right to the last few feet of the dike. Either way you do it you are heading for a two bolt anchor below the dike that splits the steep headwall. The direct dike is a bit spooky but more fun in my opinion where as the left option is better protected, easier, but harder to see the line.
Pitch 6 (5.5): Steep but moderate climbing gets you up the 20ft headwall and on to the truly moderate climbing.. Up the easy dike to a good stance. belay from gear.
Pitch 7 (5.3): Up dikes and left over a slab to a tree belay.
Pitches 8 and 9 (5.1 ish): I normally simulclimb them clipping the one bolt between the tree and the summit.Follow the dike or choose your own adventure.Belay from trees above, or stop to belay from 1 bolt at the halfway mark.
Follow directions to the launch pad from Whitehorse directions....
From the top turn right (north) and follow a trail down... Many parties rap down with 2 ropes after doing the harder pitches to avoid the hike....
Standard rack, tricams helpful in solution pockets....[NOTE: a #3 Camalot-sized piece protects the move onto the dike off the top of the crack on P4 (P3, if P1 & P2 are combined; R Hall]
Some pitches are run out giving it the R rating.... The physical crux is well protected but there is some spooky climbing on most pitches for those not comfortable running it out on 5.5 and under....
A party of two in the third pitch of Sliding Board, as seen from the route Wedge. One can also see two other parties starting Standard Route far below.
Sliding Board from Cathedral Ledge
My dad (Ernie Hansche) on sliding board (5.7) with Cathedral Ledge in the background...
"P4 Belay:End of P4" - The belayer is using the lower belay point (old pin + good gear) thus allowing the leader to also get good gear (Med.- Large Cam, just above belayer) before the run-out slab.…
An interesting panorama of torie following the runout 3rd pitch...
Devon getting toward the overlap
Looking down pitch four, from the start of the nice corner.
Slabs from a distance
Devon on the 3rd pitch
Diane starting up the "Sliding Board"
High on Sliding Board - who needs holds.
This one looks just like the one of lily in the same spot... I must like the angle