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Routes in (q) Agony Arch Area

Agony Arch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chupacabra S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Debauchery S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Delinquency (aka Agony Arete) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Every Dog Has It's Day TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear the Smear S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get on the Good Foot TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hump or Dump T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Quake and Shake Flakes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stem Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stemsation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valiant Flail to No Avail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2007
Page Views: 143 total, 1/month
Shared By: Isaac T. on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This route goes up the smooth face just left of the big overhanging block. It was originally an aid climb (so it's very well protected) then someone glued rocks onto it. Recently Louie went in and knocked off the glued-on rocks and climbed it with natural holds.

Location

In the Agony Arch area left of Agony Arch, on the blank vertical face. The route follows the shadow/light line up the blank face in the middle of the formation in the photo.

Protection

7 bolts, anchors

Photos

any info on how its aided? hooks? Mar 20, 2017
socalbolter
Silverado, CA
socalbolter   Silverado, CA
In all honesty, the description makes it sound like after I knocked off the glued holds that I climbed a very blank face. This route always consisted of a mix of glued-on rocks and chipped holds. Over the years some of the glued-on rocks fell off. All I did was remove the rest of the rocks and climb the route using a mix of natural and a fair amount of chipped holds.

It's another 13a option for folks, but heavily manufactured. Nothing to write home about. Jan 19, 2007