To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
High Plains Drifter
V7,
Boulder, 35 ft (11 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 290
votes
FA: Dale Bard, c. '80's
California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Buttermilk Country
> Buttermilks Main
> Drifter/Smoking Boulder
Description
Start with sharp patina crimps and make some long pulls slightly up and right to gain a couple of slopers. Make a dynamic move off the slopes to gain better holds and an easy, but airy summit.This problem is a North American classic and a must do for the visiting boulderer.As a note of trivia, John Sherman referred to this problem as a benchmark standard for V6 in the first edition of his Hueco guide when he initially introduced the V-scale. However, Sherman was actually referring to Change of Heart, the direct line from the same start as High Plains Drifter. The guidebook at the time mixed up the two names, so most people thought HPD was actually CoH, until Dale Bard (the first ascentionist of both routes) cleared up the confusion.
Location
Center of the north Face.
Protection
Pads and spotters
![Figured I'd throw a night climbing photo on here]()
[Hide Photo] Figured I'd throw a night climbing photo on here
![Loving every minute of the crux sequence of HPD. Photo by analise]()
[Hide Photo] Loving every minute of the crux sequence of HPD. Photo by analise
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Bishop, CA
Austin, TX
The standards for V6 from Shermans Hueco guide with some thoughts
Some people could just switch my opinion on Left and Center and it would still look pretty much the same. Feb 25, 2009
As for the V6 rating of HPD, I have a friend who claims that this thing used to be V6 but holds have deteriorated/polished/broken over time and thus he claims that the problem now fits the standard for V7. Is that true? Awesome info/discussion guys! Mar 10, 2009
Austin, TX
As far as holds changing over the years, I first did the problem about 10 years ago and as far as I can tell it really has not changed in that time except that the holds are greasier. Of course with the grainy nature of some of the holds in the second half of the problem I would believe it if some of them had crumbled over the years. Mar 25, 2009
Alberta
CA
youtube.com/watch?v=XeODswF… Dec 1, 2009
I would tend to agree that it was probably stiff V6 back then - and is probably soft V7 now.
Regardless of the grade, however, what matters is the quality. And this is, IMHO, one of the greatest boulder problems in the world. Period.
Do it. Aug 11, 2013
asheville
Lex
I think the comment about it being V5 is in reference to other problems in the Milks that simply don't stack up with the fact that High Plains is considered a V7. Change of Heart, Saigon and Pope's Prow as three V6's are ALL harder for me than High Plains but then I am quite short and those 3 problems are quite height dependent. Though, arguably, most people I talk to, of many heights, find the same three V6's a lot harder than High Plains ... and grading is meant to be a consensus thing right? Food for thought.
Not that I can comment directly on High Plains but seriously, it's the Milks, holds break and deteriorate everywhere, I've seen it happen in the few years I've been going to Bishop, let alone thinking about over a decade ... even just the polishing of a hold (and loss of some crystals) means a loss of friction, that in itself makes problems harder ... Midnight Lightning anyone? Nov 29, 2017
Seattle, WA
youtube.com/watch?v=K3EOTMG…
Enjoy! Mar 28, 2019
Bishop, CA
Brooklyn, NY
Bellingham, WA