Type: Mixed, Ice, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Culp and partner, 1970s
Page Views: 2,288 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jan 12, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This route seems to form up less frequently than Silk Road. It is longer and more sustained, too. The climb follows the gully that ends in the gash.

Start at the bench where the regular summer route begins. From here, make your way into the gully on your left (we ended up climbing down around 60 feet before some less slabby terrain allowed an easy transition into the gully). Follow the gully to the top. The crux will likely be between the tree and the spot where the gully doglegs slightly to the left, however the climbing is interesting almost the entire way. If one is feeling adventurous, one can summit. However tunneling through the gash to the bench below the first rappel off the summit provides some entertainment, too.


Rock rack from small nuts to fist size should allow all available cracks to be used for gear.


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This route has been climbed as and named as East Face Left Side.
First known ascent was by Bob Culp and partner 40 years ago. The name Pink Dreams is incorrect and should be stricken from the records........ Feb 19, 2010
Ben Collett
  WI3 M5
Ben Collett  
  WI3 M5
Jack, I don't know where the name Pink Dreams came from. I used the name from your guidebook. Someone changed the name. I don't know who or why. Fun route. Feb 20, 2010