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Klingon
5.12a,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 47
votes
FA: Gary Slate, Bruce Lella ext: Todd Graham
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Dilithium Crystal
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Either chimney up to the 3rd bolt (standard/original start) or fire off the .11c direct start into the pumpy upper wall. Head slightly left and then back right through a short overhang (the crux) to the highest anchors on the wall.
The route that splits off to the right at the 5th bolt is called the "Vulcan Variation" and checks in at .11d, but is not as classic.
This route is considered a gorge classic.
Location
On the South face of the Crystal.
Protection
10 bolts + mussy's.
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Fed up with the feuding, Bachar became depressed but continued to solo at a high level, especially at Owens River Gorge, which he had all to himself.
But within a couple of months other people found out about the Gorge. "I swear," says Bachar, "within six months there were 100 routes and they were all done on rappel. So again, I said, 'OK, every time these guys put up a route I'm gonna solo the thing.'"
Increasingly upset, Bachar once showed up at the Gorge, pointed his ghetto blaster right up the wall, cranked it to full volume and began soloing Klingon (5.12). "This climber chick came over," he says, "and asked me if I could turn the music down. I said, 'You know what, you guys got rap bolts, I got rap music. I was pretty pissed off. I'd just been through the same thing in Tuolumne. I was like, 'Where do I have to go, Mars?'" Feb 12, 2008
Boulder, CO
San Francisco, CA
Bishop, CA
Tennessee
Bachar was a rare breed, an exceptional guy who held fast to his ethics to the end. I may not have agreed with his views on rap bolting but I respected them, and the man.
RIP John. You are missed. Jan 19, 2022
Placerville, CA
He had ear phones and lycra and only nodded our presence. He then soloed the direct start and the route. I was lost and deflated. It was hard to fathom that something soo fucking hard and on my limit was done soo smooth and effortless.
It left a lasting impression Mar 13, 2024