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Technicolor Corner
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.1 from 27
votes
Routes in Flying Buttress
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A-M aidline T A2-3 |
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All Systems Go 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Arch Enemy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It's a Breeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | M. Lawson, Bobbi Bensman, Chris Dunn 1983 |
| Page Views: | 4,997 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Kole DeCou on Jan 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is one of the best corners in Sedona. You can rap after the corner pitch, or if you feel guilty for having too much fun and want to pay your pennance, continue on to the top. It gets sun almost all day.
Pitch 1) 5.8 60' Ugly. Climb a junky pitch to the ledge at the base of the corner and build a belay. The belay takes #1 and #2 Camalots real well, but if you're trying to save this size a spot for a #3.5 can be found.
Pitch 2) 5.10 100' Beautiful. Jam or layback the corner with occasional rests. The corner takes a good variety of gear. The crux comes when the crack gets wide and juts out to the right. This move protects well with a new #5 Camalot or a #0.75 a bit earlier. After the crux set gear for your follower and traverse easily to the bolted anchor.
Pitch 3) 5.9R 150' Scary. Slab, slab and more slab. There are a lot of bolts on this pitch, but it seems like every time you look down you're 20' above one of them. Micro-route finding is tricky. The 5.9 crux is just before the second bolt, where a fall would send you flying way past your belayer. From the last bolt, traverse into a corner and pull onto an ugly ledge with a very difficult to set up belay.
Warning: all but 1 of the bolts on this pitch stick out from the wall a good inch and sport old homemade hangers.
Descent:
Rap 1: 150' Locate the hard-to-see bolts next to the big tree. Rap to the Pitch 2 anchors.
Rap 2: 120' into a group of hungry agaves.
Pitch 1) 5.8 60' Ugly. Climb a junky pitch to the ledge at the base of the corner and build a belay. The belay takes #1 and #2 Camalots real well, but if you're trying to save this size a spot for a #3.5 can be found.
Pitch 2) 5.10 100' Beautiful. Jam or layback the corner with occasional rests. The corner takes a good variety of gear. The crux comes when the crack gets wide and juts out to the right. This move protects well with a new #5 Camalot or a #0.75 a bit earlier. After the crux set gear for your follower and traverse easily to the bolted anchor.
Pitch 3) 5.9R 150' Scary. Slab, slab and more slab. There are a lot of bolts on this pitch, but it seems like every time you look down you're 20' above one of them. Micro-route finding is tricky. The 5.9 crux is just before the second bolt, where a fall would send you flying way past your belayer. From the last bolt, traverse into a corner and pull onto an ugly ledge with a very difficult to set up belay.
Warning: all but 1 of the bolts on this pitch stick out from the wall a good inch and sport old homemade hangers.
Descent:
Rap 1: 150' Locate the hard-to-see bolts next to the big tree. Rap to the Pitch 2 anchors.
Rap 2: 120' into a group of hungry agaves.
Location
Drive up Schnebly Hill Road past the Moose's Butte, and park at the Cow Pie trail head. (you'll think you've gone too far.) Follow the Cow Pie trail as it contours left under a large cliff (home to Arch Enemy) twards the Flying Butress. Eventually you'll reach a saddle between the Teapot and the Flying Butress. Technicolor corner is the big obvious corner on the south face near the saddle.
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