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West Face

3rd, Trad, Alpine,  Avg: 2.7 from 43 votes
FA: Joseph N. LeConte, R.H. Butler, E.B. Gould, T. Parker, G. Cosgrove, A. Elston, A.G. Eells, 5-10-1903.
California > High Sierra > 13 - Shepherd Pass > Mt Williamson

Description

From the second lake in Williamson Bowl, the bowl between Tyndall and Williamson, head to the southern section of The West Face and a prominent rock band with black streaks.
Climb to the most obvious black water mark and ascend talus to the right of it. Climb a huge chute to it's top. Head through a small notch, overlooking Owens Valley. Traverse right to a narrow cleft. Follow this (3rd class) to the summit plateau. Wander south to the summit.
Use this same route for descent.
This is the most popular route on the mountain.

Location

Approach by Shepherd Pass.

Protection

Beginners may feel safer with a rope and a few pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crossing George Creek on our way to ski from the summit of Mt Williamson in 1986. Photo by Miguel Carmona.
[Hide Photo] Crossing George Creek on our way to ski from the summit of Mt Williamson in 1986. Photo by Miguel Carmona.
Photo of the West Face Chute - It is completely hidden from view coming from Shepherds pass until you get right underneath it.
[Hide Photo] Photo of the West Face Chute - It is completely hidden from view coming from Shepherds pass until you get right underneath it.
The chimney, straight ahead
[Hide Photo] The chimney, straight ahead
Williamson Chute
[Hide Photo] Williamson Chute
Top of the chute of the West Face of Mt Williamson
[Hide Photo] Top of the chute of the West Face of Mt Williamson
Going up the final chimney section of Mt Williamson West Face
[Hide Photo] Going up the final chimney section of Mt Williamson West Face
Looking up at the chute for the West Face route of Williamson
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the chute for the West Face route of Williamson
A friend in front of Williamson before descending into the boulder field between Williamson and Tyndall.
[Hide Photo] A friend in front of Williamson before descending into the boulder field between Williamson and Tyndall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim H
Pasadena, CA
Easy 5th
[Hide Comment] There is definitely a bit of technical (low 5th) climbing in the top chimney. Nothing too hard, but low 5th for sure and defiantly above a scramble.

  • *I know that low 5th somehow equals 3rd class in the old old rating systems, but in terms of 2017 climbing ratings this is a low 5th class climb.
Sep 9, 2017
Kaitlyn Zeichick
Lakewood, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Trip report: summitseeker775258741.wordp… Aug 5, 2020
Tyler Madani
Los Angeles
 
[Hide Comment] Absolutely no 5th class on this did it with trekking poles on my wrist May 7, 2021
Alois Smrz
Idyllwild, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Skied this route up to the summit and down to the 4,000 foot level in 1986. Don't recall any technical difficulties. Jun 1, 2024
Kellen S
Gardnerville, NV
[Hide Comment] @Tyler Madani- Did you go up the chimney or some other route? The first part of getting into the chimney seemed higher that 3rd class, possibly higher than 4th class. small foot holds and handholds, but not much exposure at least at the lower section. better foot holds and hand holds at the mid and upper section, but with higher exposure (60-80ft?) Jun 3, 2024