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Routes in (e) Right of the Roof

Atlas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Automatic Static S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grooverider 2010 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ground Zero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Bella Donna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Salubrious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Survival of the Fittest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sweet Surrender S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 2,542 total, 19/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Climb positive flakes up and slightly left to a suddenly balancy transition into a series of underclings and edges over a slight bulge. Positive holds lead over the bulge to the base of a right-facing corner system where creative body positioning combined with some stemming lead up the corner and over the top. A short bit of easy slab concludes this fun and varied pitch.

There is an extension to this route called Automatic Static (5.11b), 16 bolts to anchors.

Location

Located roughly 100' left of a prominent orange streak (Tangerine Dream) and 20' left of a ramp to vertical face (Whammy).

Protection

8 bolts, ring anchors

Photos

First half is junk. Upper corner is cool.
Watch out clipping bolt 3, the clipping hold broke today and what remains flexes.
Add this route to the cross list haha. Dec 19, 2016
johnnydanger
California
  5.11a/b
johnnydanger   California
  5.11a/b
I just onsighted this route about a week ago. It's for sure harder than any of the 10's at the quarry and right there with the lower 11's. It's a short, but sweet climb with an interesting and memorable finish! Feb 8, 2012
Tyler Quesnel
Eliot
  5.10+
Tyler Quesnel   Eliot
  5.10+
Fun fun fun. May seem 11 if you're shorter, for me everything was there and well within reach, I'd give it a 10+. Definitely one of the better climbs for the grade at the quarry (and in that area). Aug 3, 2011
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.11a
Like Tangerine Dream, I found there to be two cruxes on this route. A balancy move at B3 and pulling out of the right facing corner and up to the last bolt. Slightly harder than Tangerine Dream IMO. Great route. Nov 17, 2010
EliotAC
Mill Valley
 
EliotAC   Mill Valley
 
There's a pretty loose flake on this climb at about mid-height. It's just before the dihedral. Sep 17, 2009
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11a
From below the climbing over the small bulge looks like it will be the crux, but big friendly holds makes this easy. The corner above definitely provides the technical difficulties of the climb.

Fun pitch with a variety of techniques. Mar 13, 2007