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Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area

Adrenaline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Whammy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Conundrum S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Pain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Maximizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Minimizer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Play S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Whammy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tangerine Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicolor Tango S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Torture Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vertigo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 3,533 total, 27/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Sidle leftwards up the ramp (most skip the 1st bolt), then head up making long reaches between nice edges. The crux is a short sequence with marginal feet, but it's easily passed with a bit of technique, after which an easy bit of climbing concludes this pitch (the last bolt is essentially superfluous).

A good warm-up, and one of several popular routes in this area that see lots of traffic. There's an extension to this route called Double Whammy, 16 bolts to anchors.

Location

Located about 80' left of a a prominent orange streak of rock that characterizes the area (Tangerine Dream). The route starts on a narrow, left-slanting ramp of rock, and shares the first bolt and anchors with Minimizer.

Protection

7 bolts, ring anchors

Photos

Henrik Albihn
Orange, CA
  5.9+
Henrik Albihn   Orange, CA
  5.9+
Decent warm-up, not very sustained. Mostly in the 5.7-5.8 range, crux is relatively low (maybe around bolt 3-4), but it's well bolted. Jul 2, 2017
Extremely awkward climbing, keep going past the anchors for Double Whammy and make the climb worthwhile! Nov 27, 2012
Rob M
Shangri-LA
Rob M   Shangri-LA
I thought it was pretty fun. Take 3 or so slings to extend some of the draws. You'll see them. Jan 29, 2012
johnnydanger
California
  5.10a
johnnydanger   California
  5.10a
Great warm-up for new leaders at the quarry. I feel it's about 10a. No more, no less. Maybe 2 hard moves at the crux on crimps. Fun easy route. Oct 18, 2011
Tyler Quesnel
Eliot
 
Tyler Quesnel   Eliot
 
Okay warm up, but a little short. Basically easy climbing for 70% of the route with a couple moves that make it a 10. Jul 22, 2011
Erik Campos
Fort Bragg, NC
  5.10b
Erik Campos   Fort Bragg, NC
  5.10b
The ramp part was easy. I hit a crux when the 2 routes connected. Don't do what I did and use all your energy on that crux. Past that part and you will find some really nice holds. Guidebook says its a 10b, is it? Jun 21, 2011
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Good warmup. Easy climbing with one distinct crux...I believe moving pass the 4th bolt on two crimps to left and right of it with a blind reach to a jug above.

Usually has climbers on this route as it is one of the easier routes in the area. It was my first lead ever and I usually put people on this climb as their first lead also. Easy access as it is one of the first routes you come across after taking the hike up to the base of this crag. May 12, 2010
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10b
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10b
The climb seems to wander too much - all for about 10 feet of worthwhile climbing. Mar 13, 2007