Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dane Bass and Ed Wright
Page Views: 19,591 total · 134/month
Shared By: 8jimi8 Clary on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route

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4 pitches, 5 rappel stations:

P1: 5.8
P2: 5.9+ Bolted layback crack; it's sharp!
P3: 5.9+ Don't stop at the extra rappel station.
P4: 5.10a Crux pitch. Step out over the void and pull to the top of razor ridge.

Make sure you look through hole in the wall and see the other side of the next canyon before you get out on the last pitch.


Half way up the canyon on the right side. The route starts next to a table-sized rock on the path.


Bolts every 10-15 feet. 60m rope will get you up and down.
this is a cool route and a unique location in the park. there are a few other worthwhile routes in lobo canyon - so it is worth the hike. the route is not as free of sharp vegitation as other walls - plus the rock is considerably sharper. i remember lots of fossils in the rock on this route. the last pitch is great and exposed. more of a boulder problem with exposure. Jan 31, 2007
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
The first couple moves of the last pitch are stellar. The rest of the route is also very good. Mar 27, 2007
Bryan Howell
San Francisco, CA
Bryan Howell   San Francisco, CA
Ooooh yeah, leading that last pitch is key. One of the highlights of the park... Dec 19, 2007
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Great climb, last pitch is fun, but short. Hike to climb is longer than you think...just keep counting the bolt lines and you will eventually get to the climb. Jan 20, 2009
One of the nicest routes I've climbed. Fourth pitch is amazing. Sep 30, 2012
Jim Morse
Hannibal, MO
Jim Morse   Hannibal, MO
Good route overall. That last move out onto the last pitch really makes it. Took me a minute to convince myself that I was going to be able to step out and stay on... Dec 28, 2012
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
Awesome route! A couple notes:

P1 - felt more like 5.9
P2 - stellar
P3 - the longest pitch, about 120ft, took 13 draws if I remember correctly. a little pumpy
P4 - as mentioned, the first 3 bolts are wonderfully exposed climbing. short pitch, maybe 50ft

could certainly link pitches 1 and 2

4 raps to get down: 1)summit to top of p3, 2) to rap station 1/4 up p3, 3) to p1 anchor, 4) to the ground. you MIGHT be able to do raps 1 and 2 in a single rappel with a 70m rope but it would be close. Dec 24, 2014
Ken Chase
Toronto, ON
Ken Chase   Toronto, ON
did this today. p4 is stellar. the layback midway on p2 is pretty awesome too, unique climbing. you can rap in 3 on a 70m: from top to substation on p3 (ledge 30' above p3 belay), to top of p1, to ground. rope stretcher on a 70 to substation, but doable. with a 60m do it in 4 raps. linked 1+2, 3+4 on a 70m. Feb 5, 2016
Derek Strittmatter
Derek Strittmatter   AUSTIN
Great route! Be sure to find the trail next to the wall on the approach and avoid the scree field. P3 had the most bolts at 14. Mar 28, 2016
Did this route this evening.

First pitch felt a little tricky and maybe even tad bit runout in spots- same with pitch 2 about the run outs.

You will get a good view on the summit of this route of the notorious spot on the rappell for Estrellitas where everyone gets their rope stuck in the gully. Look left and you will see the palm tree with the fixed line attached to it.

All and all though this was a pretty fun route- get on it!

Oh yeah, and don't be thrown off on the third pitch by the extra rap station- keep climbing. You will know you're starting the fourth pitch because there is an awkward traverse right. and I mean AWKWARD. Haha. But still great fun. Dec 21, 2016
Jon Jones
Penticton, B.C.
Jon Jones   Penticton, B.C.
A great route. P1 stiff for grade. P4 soft for grade. If you combine pitches 1 and 2 you will need 18-20 quick draws. You can also combine pitches 3 and 4 but it's best not to as this could make communication difficult. You can descend in 3 raps with one 70m rope: 1st rap, top to sub-anchor on p3; 2nd rap, sub-anchor to top of p1; 3rd rap, to ground. Feb 17, 2017
Jake Ryan
Gilbert, AZ
Jake Ryan   Gilbert, AZ
Rad pitches full of all different stuff. I agree with most people that the first few pitches are a tad stiff, final pitch is rated for the first move or two off the deck. Honestly, favorite quick couple of pitches to do in Portrero. We had a wicked fun time. May 30, 2017
Shao Hao  
Good climb, definitely linkable with a 70 but don't link 2+3 (we did that cause we were waiting for a party on P1). Rope drag is unbelievable. Other than that, good climb and a super cool P4 into-the-unknown moment which can put even stronger climbers on their toes for a bit Jan 3, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
I actually found the crux to be a very awkward, unintuitive rightward step on P3, between the middle rap station and the next anchor. I also saw other people make the same mistake of following the weakness up and left, noticing they were significantly runout, and that they were level with the next bolt out to the right. This contrived sequence was the only caveat to an otherwise brilliant climb.

The first move off the belay on the last pitch did not feel any harder than moves on P2, and it's a cruise after that one move.

Definitely link P1+2. Jan 5, 2018
Sacramento, CA
DubDub   Sacramento, CA
Lap links on P1 anchor getting groovy. Rapped from two oval lockers off the bolt hangers tonite. I donated for safety, not for booty. Feb 21, 2018
Lexi Q
Lexi Q  
Just a heads up, as a lightweight I barely made it from the top to the P3 substation on our 70m. Obviously individual rope stretches will vary but worth noting. Feb 23, 2018
Durango, Co
TrevorRoulstin   Durango, Co
I second DubDub's concerns! all the links connecting to the bolts at every anchor station are deeply grooved! Such a popular route deserves some good hardware. I am Willing to support financially. contact me. Feb 23, 2018
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
This is my second time on this route and first for my partner. We had a Sterling 70m rope, we easily linked pitches 1/2 with no issue.
Singled out pitches 3 & 4. I'm pretty certain that linking 3/4 wouldn't work with the travel of the rope and nature of the final pitch (a plumb line barely makes it).

The final pitch is pretty neat, I had forgotten until I got to the top of p3. The summit anchors are kinda a mess. There are extra bolts to hang out and take selfies and even transfer bolts to gain the anchor but you'll find some spinners and basically, we could all benefit with a better set up considering the star count and traffic.

We rapped from the summit to the top of P2. Not a ton of extra rope so tie knots or watch your ends. Single raps from 2 > 1, 1> ground.

The anchor at P2 is another area that could use some love. Currently configured with flat fixe hangers with the single ring. Plenty bomber to rappel from but doesn't allow for much wiggle room even as a party of 2. A few extra convenience bolts as you find on other popular routes would solve this issue.

Neither I or my partner noticed any issue with the smash-links and/or chain condition on top of P1. Although, that configuration is an easier fix with lap-links and fresh chain.

The route is great, the suggestions for anchor changes is only a recommendation. It's not like we're carrying drills and hardware on vacation so such efforts sadly fall on the good samaritan locals and developers. Mar 4, 2018
First three pitches all seemed stiff for the grade Nov 15, 2018
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
What up, ballerz. We had to get a climber down pronto for health reasons, so I left a Metolius mini locker atop P3. Retrieval would be greatly appreciated and remunerated with a bomber breakfast burrito courtesy of Sender’s Game Podcast. 5 days ago · Lost & Found