Type: Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Billy Roos and Sandy East, 1980s
Page Views: 19,267 total · 92/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on Jan 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The first pitch goes up a beautiful, wide, chandeliered tongue of ice to bolted anchors on the left (60 m). On the left side, the ice can be thin and undermined - it is better to stay to the right, WI4-5, depending on the exact line climbed. Per mike d: most parties climb left, so the new anchor to climber's right can accommodate a second party and is the preferred rappel station.

A short snow slog goes up to a small bowl (30 m).

The second pitch climbs a low-angle ramp of possibly thin, hollow ice to bolted anchors (up and right). 30 m, WI 3.

A longer snow slog leads up to a second bowl, where the climb forks (60 m). The left fork is easier.

Right fork: the third pitch climbs up more chandeliered ice to bolted anchors on the left, 50 m, WI 4-5.

Left fork: the third pitch climbs up a few short steps, WI 3. Per Josh Stuart: there are bolted anchors to the right.

Location Suggest change

The Whorehouse Houses are on the right (east) side of the canyon, up Niagara Gulch. From the usual parking lot in Eureka, the climb is visible across the creek in the back of a deep chimney. Hike up the chimney/canyon to the base of the ice.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws. There are bolted anchors at the tops of the three technical pitches.