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Routes in Eureka

Type: Ice, 600 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Billy Roos and Sandy East, 1980s
Page Views: 11,219 total, 84/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on Jan 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch goes up a beautiful, wide, chandeliered tongue of ice to bolted anchors on the left (60 m). On the left side, the ice can be thin and undermined - better to stay to the right. WI 4-5, depending on the exact line climbed.

A short snow slog goes up to a small bowl (30 m).

The second pitch climbs a low-angle ramp of possibly thin, hollow ice to bolted anchors (up and right). 30 m, WI 3.

A longer snow slog leads up to a second bowl, where the climb forks (60 m). The left fork is easier.

Right fork: the third pitch climbs up more chandeliered ice to bolted anchors on the left. 50 m, WI 4-5.

Left fork: the third pitch climbs up a few short steps. WI 3. We did not climb this fork, so I can't comment on the protection at the top.

Location

The Whorehouse Houses are on the right (east) side of the canyon, up Niagara Gulch. From the usual parking lot in Eureka, the climb is visible across the creek in the back of a deep chimney. Hike up the chimney/canyon to the base of the ice.

Protection

Ice screws. There are bolted anchors at the tops of the three technical pitches.
FA sometime back in the '80s by Billy Roos and Sandy East. Sep 11, 2014
MattCranston
Ouray, CO
  WI4-5
MattCranston   Ouray, CO
  WI4-5
Amazing first and last pitch (last pitch some of the finest conditions I have seen - Feb. 28,2013), but I would bring two 70m ropes - the first pitch is longer than it seems. Mar 1, 2013
Dave L  
The left fork at the top has bolted anchors and is about 55m long. Jan 7, 2013
Martin le Roux
Superior, CO
 
Martin le Roux   Superior, CO
 
Pitch 1 is a bit longer than 60m, at least on lead. We had to simul-climb for a few feet. Double 60s were fine on rappel.

As of Feb. 2012, the base of pitch 2 (the easy pitch) was a snow bridge above flowing water. We discovered this because my parter punched through when rappeling. Feb 14, 2012
"H" Lampasso
Manitou Springs
"H" Lampasso   Manitou Springs
As of 2010 February 19 this was in fat! At least the first pitch was. picked a bad weekend to go. Avi danger started at considerable and went to high. High clouds in the early morning gave way to heavy snow and wind. We were getting nailed with spindrift from all angles, the worst coming down the climb itself. After getting knocked off by increasingly heavier spindrift we backed off. I bailed about 20 ft from the top of pitch one. Didn't need to get hit again! It was fun but starting to get a little out of hand! Feb 22, 2010
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  WI4-5
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  WI4-5
This is a climb that should not be missed. If you need another reason- it's on Guy Lacelle's list of the Top 100 Ice Climbs In the World! Conditions can vary so Id recommend being a comfortable WI5 climber to do it.

When I climbed it, the right finish had big gaping holes with water running down inside even though it was mid-winter and really cold. The bolt anchor at the top of the right finish is much appreciated as is the one at the top of P1 as belays would otherwise entail dicey tat or a lot of v-threads (equating to a lot of trash in the spring).

I guess I should add a safety note based on an experience I had on this last year. I tried to avoid a nasty slide down the steep little step in the stream bed on the descent after climbing (this is about 50-60 feet from the climb) and "craftily" stepped off the slick packed track to posthole down in soft snow. As I descended the step a large section collapsed under me into the running water of the stream in the gully! I fell on to the remaining edge of ice with half my body in the water. The rock was slick and with the water I was unable to extract myself. My partner realized what was happening and, grabbing my harness, pulled me out. We carefully approached the vertical gap in the step and tried probing for the bottom with our ski poles. Never located it. Id imagine falling all the way in would resemble a nasty crevasse fall or one of those stories of someone falling through a hole in an ice climb and dying of exposure. In retrospect its probably safest when walking over a running stream to stick to the packed path as it is always the firmest and hence safest area! Jun 5, 2008
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Nice TR and pics.... Dec 13, 2007
More photos and a TR here: piquaclimber.net/past/whore… Dec 13, 2007