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Routes in Sonic Youth Cliff

Agent Orange S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Flag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crankenstein T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everybodys Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fearless Freaks S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
GBH S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hooligans S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Loki S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slam Dancin' With The Amish T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sonic Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown Pile S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 3,856 total · 28/month
Shared By: Gary Savage on Jan 5, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Climb the very crimpy face on vertical to slightly overhanging rock to a bad rest. The crux comes at about 3/4 of the way up and if that's not enough its still hard 11 after that and by then your PUMPED. Long fall potential off the top if your too pumped to make the final moves to the anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

3rd route from the right side of the cliff.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts, Chain anchor

Photos

this is a sport climb. you don't need any gear. Feb 22, 2009
Josh Janes    
 
The second bolt on this route was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in March 2012. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA atsafeclimbing.org. Mar 14, 2012
Patrick R. M.
Mesa, AZ
Patrick R. M.   Mesa, AZ
Yesterday, I was cleaning my draws while being lowered off, and when I went to reach for the dogbone of my draw that was clipped to the second bolt, the bolt and hanger pulled clean out with a terrifyingly minimal amount of force. No one was hurt, but I am incompetent and without a drill, so the bolt and hanger were left clipped to the first bolt. The bolt appears to have been replaced relatively recently, and appears to be in good shape, but we guessed that many people likely stick clip and whip on the second bolt, in addition to the outward forces from belays away from the wall rather than under the draw, and possibly also loosening from climbers when the rock may still be wet - a happening of which we're all well aware. This is the first time I've experienced this here in red rock, and was certainly a reality check. Please be careful trusting single bolts!

Also, if you are experienced in replacing bolts, I would love to learn and help/assist/chip in/do it myself if you're willing to teach! Still gotta send this thing, after all :D Apr 7, 2016
12c. Mar 11, 2018

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