Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Leo Henson
Page Views: 3,539 total · 24/month
Shared By: Gary Savage on Jan 5, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is the classic route on the cliff. Look for the hueco half way up the route. The Crux is very crimpy and technical and involves a high step and long balancy reach.

Apparently a hold in the crux has crumbled and it's now harder.

Location

Half way down the wall. There is a large Hueco half way up. You will also notice more chalk on this one than most of the other routes as this is the most popular route on the cliff.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Aaron S  
There is a note written in chalk at the base of this route about one of the bolts being bad. I was told that the bolt walked halfway out just from rope movement. Hopefully someone with a bolt kit wants to do a little community service. May 15, 2008
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.12b/c PG13
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.12b/c PG13
Cool fun climbing leads to BOULDER crux. Not sport climbing crux but boulder crux! Excellent route worth the skin for sure! Oct 14, 2011
jessy
las Vegas, nv
 
jessy   las Vegas, nv
 
This is an awesome route. Everyone talks shit on this route bc a hold broke but the beta to move through that section flows well and is very interesting. I never climbed it before the hold broke but I would be willing to bet it is even better now. Also, I am 5'2 and I can say that no move is reachy if you figure out the beta! Nov 9, 2014
Justin Turner
Cave Creek, AZ
Justin Turner   Cave Creek, AZ
Was very close to sending this route years ago but always fell at the crux move (right hand crimp move to left hand slopey sidepull). Had heard the crux right hand hold broke but was skeptical that it would make the move that much harder. Well, it definitely is harder, ha. All good, routes change over time and that's OK. But it definitely is a harder move. For those who have never been on this, you won't ever know! For those who have, you can share in my whining, ha. One of the best mid-grade 12's I've ever been on and solid grade imo. Jan 23, 2017
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12c
Dylan Demyanek   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12c
I never climbed on the route before the hold breakage, but my personal opinion is that the route might even be better now. The current crux sequence is challenging, exciting and enjoyable - and it seems to me that the old sequence was likely less interesting. I feel like the new sequence merits 5.12c post breakage - curious about other opinions. Regardless, one of the best routes out there. Sep 16, 2018
peter k  
improperly installed ringbolt glue ins before and after crux. former is failing and later is pretty much toast.
on such a popular route seems worth replacing an notching to prevent this type of failure recurring. Nov 1, 2018
^got pics or can you describe what makes you think they failed? Do they move in the hole? The Pier might be too sandy for glue. Nov 1, 2018
peter k  
added to photos. will remove after
glue ins would be perfect for this rock if installed appropriately Nov 1, 2018
Definitely bad. In really sandy rock were no amount of brushing and blowing yields a clean hole, glue will lose its bond. Agree that recessing can help. Nov 1, 2018
The 2 protection bolts in question were chopped and replaced with ASCA wave bolts today. Nov 3, 2018