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Routes in The Pier

Almost but not Quite S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Basement S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cling Free S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Destiny S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drug Sniffing Pot-Bellied Pig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
False Alarm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Geometric Progression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
How Do You Like them Pineapples? S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Long Walk Off Of a Short Pier S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pier Pressure S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Poco Owes Me a Concert S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seventh Hour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thirsty Quail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Under the Boardwalk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Leo Henson
Page Views: 3,093 total, 23/month
Shared By: Gary Savage on Jan 5, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is the classic route on the cliff. Look for the hueco half way up the route. The Crux is very crimpy and technical and involves a high step and long balancy reach.

Apparently a hold in the crux has crumbled and it's now harder.

Location

Half way down the wall. There is a large Hueco half way up. You will also notice more chalk on this one than most of the other routes as this is the most popular route on the cliff.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Justin Turner
Cave Creek, AZ
Justin Turner   Cave Creek, AZ
Was very close to sending this route years ago but always fell at the crux move (right hand crimp move to left hand slopey sidepull). Had heard the crux right hand hold broke but was skeptical that it would make the move that much harder. Well, it definitely is harder, ha. All good, routes change over time and that's OK. But it definitely is a harder move. For those who have never been on this, you won't ever know! For those who have, you can share in my whining, ha. One of the best mid-grade 12's I've ever been on and solid grade imo. Jan 23, 2017
jessy
las Vegas, nv
 
jessy   las Vegas, nv
 
This is an awesome route. Everyone talks shit on this route bc a hold broke but the beta to move through that section flows well and is very interesting. I never climbed it before the hold broke but I would be willing to bet it is even better now. Also, I am 5'2 and I can say that no move is reachy if you figure out the beta! Nov 9, 2014
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b/c PG13
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b/c PG13
Cool fun climbing leads to BOULDER crux. Not sport climbing crux but boulder crux! Excellent route worth the skin for sure! Oct 14, 2011
Aaron S  
There is a note written in chalk at the base of this route about one of the bolts being bad. I was told that the bolt walked halfway out just from rope movement. Hopefully someone with a bolt kit wants to do a little community service. May 15, 2008