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Routes in The Pinnacle

Alternate Start T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Comfortably Numb T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack a Smile T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Diane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Gully T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hairbrained T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Logan's Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loosy Goosy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magical Branding Iron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pin Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pin Chimney Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Valdez, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
sweet home boltabama T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dempsey Medford, Carl Resh - 1985
Page Views: 3,789 total, 28/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jan 5, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

With its traversing moves and the old piton that gives the route its name, Pin Chimney is a little reminiscent of Gunks climbing. The rock is great quality, the protection is good and the exposure rivals that of the neighboring Comfortably Numb. One of the nicer moderate trad routes at Sand Rock.

Starting on a flat boulder below a large cave, work your way up the right side of the cave to a ledge above. Note: don't count on getting any protection in before gaining the ledge. Traverse left and up to an obvious chimney, noting an old pin which you may or may not decide to clip. Climb the well-protected chimney to the top.

Location

Starts near the east end of the Pinnacle, below a cave, around the corner left of the Standard Route.

Protection

A good range of cams, nuts, tricams (mostly medium range). Long slings are needed for the traverse. Bolted anchors on top.
Nolan Fulton
Montgomery,AL
  5.8 PG13
Nolan Fulton   Montgomery,AL
  5.8 PG13
So far this is one of my top 3 trad climbs at Sand rock. Like the description says this reminds me of the gunks with moderate exposure and good views. I would trust the piton in the chimney and there are a couple of spots for nuts and cams in the chimney but limited. A must do! Aug 21, 2017
Cres Simpson
Cambridge, MA
  5.8+
Cres Simpson   Cambridge, MA
  5.8+
Awesome trad route and my favorite trad lead at SR (though I haven't built up the nerve to lead Comfortably Numb yet). I think I actually started halfway between the direct start and the true start -- it's slightly overhung but on huge jugs and protects extremely well with a slung horn about 10' off the deck. From there it's smooth sailing!

I did not clip the fixed pin in the chimney as it looked pretty manky, but there's ample pro, albeit finicky. I had some large tricams with me (grey and green, iirc) that worked well. The pro is definitely there, you just have to find it!

Overall an outstanding climb and one of SR's moderate trad gems. Dec 6, 2012
Roswell
Newnan. Ga
Roswell   Newnan. Ga
Must do if good trad leads are your thing. Have heard many way that route offers minimal protection in for about the first 25' but i had no difficulty. Move up right of the roof then traverse left until under obvious chimney. Once into chimney the start of it there are not many options for pro except the old Piton wedged in the crack at the start. Piton seems good enough then once you push past the start of the chimney there are more options for pro. But hands down one of the best routes i have done at sand rock. Oct 18, 2012