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Comfortably Numb
5.9,
Trad, TR, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 128
votes
FA: Rich Gottlieb - 1979
Alabama
> Sand Rock
> Pinnacle
Description
A true Sandrock trad classic, Comfortably Numb is long, pumpy and exposed. It's a great challenge for bold leaders, but many like to set it up as a toprope. A 60-meter rope is a must.
Starting in the center of the wall, climb a slabby face with little opportunity for pro; you may be able to place a tiny cam before you get to a fixed pin about 40' up, just below an overhang/bulge. Pull through the overhang on good holds to a spacious ledge and catch your breath, then head up through a shallow roof and continue up the steep face on great holds and plentiful gear placements to the top. Sit back at the anchors and enjoy the view of the valley below while your breathing returns to normal.
Location
Starts on the south side of the Pinnacle, in the middle of the face. Many like to toprope belay from a flat-topped rock outcropping some 40' above and right of the start (don't fall!).
Protection
Lots of small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams); one fixed pin. Open shuts for anchors.
[Hide Photo] Comfortably Numb, taken from the base of the route. I have plans to climb this route soon and when I do I'll add the line with the bolt locations
[Hide Photo] Jamie clearing the slab on Comfortably Numb
[Hide Comment] This is about as classic as it gets at SR. The old Dixie Cragger gives it 5.9, which I agree with. The crux is a couple moves thru the steep section at the top of the slab, above what seems to be a good piton.
Jan 19, 2007
[Hide Comment] I finally got up the nerve to lead Comfortably Numb, and it was hugely satisfying! The initial slab section is run out for sure, but it's easy climbing (maybe 5.6), and I managed to get in a 00 TCU about 30' up. The upper section stays on you, but you can work against the pump factor by finding strategic rests.
[Hide Comment] Excellent route! I also managed to find a small TCU placement part way up the slab but it wouldn't have been enough to prevent a ground fall. Make sure you find the fixed pin before pulling the bulge! The second half is quite sporty in nature: steep climbing on big holds with most protection coming from slung horns.
Sep 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] Very classic! Heady and exposed the whole way. Reminded me of Northwest Conversion at Sunset, but way better rock. Back the pin up with a #1 camalot or blue tri-cam. You can also cinch off the old cold-shut studs with two nuts for pro. Lots of long slings to keep things running smooth. Definitely doubles in the TCU size range and singles up to #2 camalot/lavender metolius or green tri-cam.
Jan 2, 2012
[Hide Comment] Definitely bring slings to extend gear. The route kinda meanders a bit and rope drag on this bad boy can cost you at the anchors!
Apr 16, 2021
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route today. Very fun. I only had to climb about 20' before clipping the piton. Saying the piton is 30'-40' off the ground is quite the exaggeration. The moves up to the piton are only about 5.6, mostly on edges. I am no piton expert, but the piton seems quite bomber as of March 2022. Still backed up the piton with a decent .3 cam. I would still recommend being a solid 5.9 leader for this climb, as the crux is protected by the piton and I could be wrong about how good of a piece it is.
Mar 27, 2022
[Hide Comment] The bottom gave me a buzz reminiscent of listening to pink Floyd and huffing duster in the jacuzzi as a kid. Seems to be a few different ways to do the face past the pin. Maybe my route finding was also the result of my formative years. Definitely didn't make the bottom slab 5.6 but I found 4 interesting placements I think may have held me. I think I could change a tire on a Dodge Neon with a tricam I swear. The black .4 inch made me giggle. It was the highlight of that 15 minutes.
May 31, 2022
[Hide Comment] Anyone have beta on setting up a toprope from the top of this route? I'll be taking a Sand Rock trip soon and would like to do this route, but don't have a trad rack.
Aug 25, 2023
Avg: 3.6 from 128
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Ogden, UT
Atlanta, GA
Decatur, GA
One of Sand Rock's finest! Aug 31, 2008
Bristol, UK
The second half is quite sporty in nature: steep climbing on big holds with most protection coming from slung horns. Sep 2, 2011
Clemson, S.C.
Atlanta, GA
Athens, GA
As of 12/14/19, the nest is gone! Sep 8, 2019
Wheat Ridge, CO
Boulder, CO
I am no piton expert, but the piton seems quite bomber as of March 2022. Still backed up the piton with a decent .3 cam.
I would still recommend being a solid 5.9 leader for this climb, as the crux is protected by the piton and I could be wrong about how good of a piece it is. Mar 27, 2022
Chattanooga, TN
Atlanta, GA
Chattanooga, TN