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Routes in The Pinnacle

Alternate Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comfortably Numb T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack a Smile T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Diane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Gully T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hairbrained T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Logan's Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loosy Goosy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magical Branding Iron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pin Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pin Chimney Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Valdez, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft
FA: Rich Gottlieb - 1979
Page Views: 9,800 total, 74/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jan 5, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

A true Sandrock trad classic, Comfortably Numb is long, pumpy and exposed. It's a great challenge for bold leaders, but many like to set it up as a toprope. A 60-meter rope is a must.

Starting in the center of the wall, climb a slabby face with little opportunity for pro; you may be able to place a tiny cam before you get to a fixed pin about 40' up, just below an overhang/bulge. Pull through the overhang on good holds to a spacious ledge and catch your breath, then head up through a shallow roof and continue up the steep face on great holds and plentiful gear placements to the top. Sit back at the anchors and enjoy the view of the valley below while your breathing returns to normal.

Location

Starts on the south side of the Pinnacle, in the middle of the face. Many like to toprope belay from a flat-topped rock outcropping some 40' above and right of the start (don't fall!).

Protection

Lots of small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams); one fixed pin. Open shuts for anchors.
Jason Eberhard
Atlanta, GA
  5.9
Jason Eberhard   Atlanta, GA
  5.9
The top of this has two sets of anchors and sets up for TR much nicer from the lowers. It will use every bit of a 60m. Mar 27, 2017
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Very classic! Heady and exposed the whole way. Reminded me of Northwest Conversion at Sunset, but way better rock. Back the pin up with a #1 camalot or blue tri-cam. You can also cinch off the old cold-shut studs with two nuts for pro. Lots of long slings to keep things running smooth. Definitely doubles in the TCU size range and singles up to #2 camalot/lavender metolius or green tri-cam. Jan 2, 2012
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
  5.9- PG13
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
  5.9- PG13
Excellent route! I also managed to find a small TCU placement part way up the slab but it wouldn't have been enough to prevent a ground fall. Make sure you find the fixed pin before pulling the bulge!
The second half is quite sporty in nature: steep climbing on big holds with most protection coming from slung horns. Sep 2, 2011
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
I finally got up the nerve to lead Comfortably Numb, and it was hugely satisfying! The initial slab section is run out for sure, but it's easy climbing (maybe 5.6), and I managed to get in a 00 TCU about 30' up. The upper section stays on you, but you can work against the pump factor by finding strategic rests.

One of Sand Rock's finest! Aug 31, 2008
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.9
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.9
This makes for an exciting and spicy lead at Sandrock. Mar 13, 2007
Brian Waters
Ogden, UT
  5.9
Brian Waters   Ogden, UT
  5.9
This is about as classic as it gets at SR. The old Dixie Cragger gives it 5.9, which I agree with. The crux is a couple moves thru the steep section at the top of the slab, above what seems to be a good piton. Jan 19, 2007