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Routes in The Plaque Wall

Bereavement (Formerly "Dreadlock Rasta") T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Doing the Ritz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edge of Flight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Instant Karma T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Patio Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reintarnation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim Karpowitz 1986
Page Views: 2,703 total, 20/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Jan 4, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Climb up and left in the finger crack on a slab to the base of the roof. There, pull the roof in the off-finger crack, possibly using a face hold out right. At the horizontal hand crack, head up and left to join Patio Direct at the ledge. Finish on Patio Direct. Great rock.

May feel 10+ if you're taller than 5'10".

Location

In the patio area, this climb ascends the short overhanging crack leading up to the patio ledge halfway up. Start in the left angling finger crack on the raised ledge.

Protection

Pro to 3.5". 2 bolt anchor. Rap, lower, or hike off into the gully left of this area.

Photos

Kyle Hill
Denver, CO
  5.11a
Kyle Hill   Denver, CO
  5.11a
Very fun route! I don't think I placed any gear bigger than a #1 BD. It helps a lot to place a small cam at the very bottom of the roof crack in order to get the rope out of your way... A .75 BD protected the roof perfectly. Jun 4, 2016
Me too!! I never saw any of the photos. I think they exist though! Some old climber from the 70s probably.. Mar 13, 2014
Mike-R
springfield, Mo
Mike-R   springfield, Mo
terry andrews. I would love to see that photo. That is a rare piece of Arkansas climbing history. Mar 11, 2014
Although I think that at least one guide book has mistakenly listed the first ascent in 1986, I actually did the first ascent in December 1978. Friends had just come out and I had just got three of them for Christmas. Sam Audrain and I went to Sam's Throne and the first climb I got on was Instant Karma. I plugged my new friends in and got it clean on my first try. A local guy that watched and photographed us informed me that I had done the first ascent of "Instant Karma" when I reached the top! Feb 20, 2014