Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Eric Forney
Page Views: 6,989 total · 46/month
Shared By: Adam Peters on Jan 4, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


107 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The main route at Lower Scott, start on either side of the arete to gain great pro and climbing. Head straight up the crack and pull around a slight bulge for the crux. Continue up to Anchors on a good ledge.

Location

The trail to the bottom of the crag was redone a couple of years ago by volunteers, thanks guys, and is much better than it used to be.

Protection

Nuts and Cams, but nothing larger than a #2 Camalot should suffice. Two bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
 
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
 
This is arguably the most climbed route in the Refuge. Always sees traffic because of quick access to the route, and the two bolt anchor at the top.
Plus it's a good climb.... Jan 28, 2008
Yowza! This climb gave me a run for my money. Took my first big lead fall on this one. Placed a yellow TCU about 3/4 up the route and had clipped it but didn't quite like it, so jamed my hand in the crack bellow and began to move up to check it out, my jam blew and I want sailing down about 20ft. I SHOULD have not fallen that far though, but my belayer was a newbie and there was a lot of drag in the tope making it hard to determine how much slack there actually was. It gave me a good scare.

The route makes you think though. It's a very sustained 5.7 and a hard 5.7 at that. Apr 26, 2009
Scott Strong
Dallas, TX
  5.7
Scott Strong   Dallas, TX
  5.7
This route eats up gear. Most of the climbing is fairly easy and straight-forward. Great hands and feet. The crux is very committing and exposed but protects beautifully. Once through the crux, it's easy climbing. I definitely feel the name of this route is appropriate. Nov 27, 2010
Tristan Bradford
Oklahoma City, OK
 
Tristan Bradford   Oklahoma City, OK
 
Andrew Smith
Dallas, TX
 
Andrew Smith   Dallas, TX
 
One of my favorites at the Refuge, awesome exposure, sustained, and fun moves...I placed mainly nuts on the face with cams protecting roof moves. In my opinion, I thought it was easier than some other 5.7s I have done at the Refuge. Regardless, a great lead. Nov 9, 2017
Is it possible to access the anchors from above & top rope it to get a feel before going for the lead? Somewhat new at placing gear, thanks! Aug 25, 2018
Danny O
Tulsa
Danny O   Tulsa
Some of the routes have bolted anchors or have a large boulder that can be used as an anchor, this includes High Anxiety. Apr 29, 2019