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Routes in i. Terror Dome

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreaming of Anything T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dreaming of PJ T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutmaster T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,500 total, 11/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 4, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Location

This route is on the left arete of the large block of Terror Dome. Start at blocks below and to the left of the arete, and traverse right to gain the face. Wander up the left side of the face, just right of the arete, and aiming for the cracks on the left. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Adequate, but not generous. All gear anchor at top. Watch out for copperheads in the cracks.

Photos

The direct start involved jumping and getting hold of the corner of a small squarish block just over the roof. Perhaps 5.10b; I call it 'Ulyssus' because it's harder than 'Portait of the Artist as a Young Man. I will call it 'Finnegan's Wake' if you do the entire route as a campus without using feet, blindfolded.

I found it helped me to stand just a bit "uphill" (to the right and inside) from the squarish block and find a small feature to hold your right-hand fingers on as leverage for the jump, and grabbing the squarish block with my left hand. See the photo...
Sep 5, 2016
Dave Pfurr  
 
Oh...I liked this one! The step-across start is committing...like casting-off on an adventure. The protection was there--although I might call it more PG than G--at least in some spots. Definitely some challenges along the way. Might go back and try the direct start--looked appealing. Apr 28, 2016
Once you're on the face (I make the big step off the block on the left onto the arete) it's basically just moving from horizontal to horizontal (with gear in each one). The upper face is steep so getting the gear requires a bit of stamina, but it was more than adequate; I think I placed two stoppers and a couple cams in that last 20 feet. Overall a very good face climb. Sep 3, 2014
i thought this had a few nice moves.

this also has a possible direct start but it's dicey:

jump to the good hold under the main face at the arete and campus/heel hook your way to a stance. a little harder than the direct start to the route on the right. Jun 24, 2012
The gear at the top is adequate, but no more than that. Jul 4, 2010