PRINT: Rock Climb Captain's Log, The Gunks

Captain's Log

5.4, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 74 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > g. Enterprise Wall

Description

A "slab" climb with a very tricky start; I've seen 5.5 leaders back off this route, as the starting move isn't well-protected. I've also seen several people continue straight up the face, while the route actually goes up and left; you can wander into some distinctly not 5.4 territory if you're not careful (see discussion in comments). There's a shelf with some greenery in it, nearly at the top; you want to stay left of that.

Location

Start on top of the block at base of the face; climb obvious seam to the top, trending left. Easy walk-off.

Protection

Pro is adequate, but can be fiddly to place. Bolts 10' back from the top.

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Captain's Log

Leading Captain's Log

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Valerie A B
Las Vegas, NV

A little hard to toprope due to how the route wanders left and right up the wall. We remedied this be just going straight up over the bulge(5.5) near the top. Jul 10, 2010

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV

5.4

Skip it and lap Kling-on instead.

If you top rope it, I'd suggest going straight up the middle of the face and make it a 5.5-5.6 climb with a nice bulge near the end. The route probably stays far left on the wall and the swing off the anchor would be ouch, even with whatever directional you could manage to place. Jul 12, 2010

Trevor Smith

Lead up it, had the second clear it and the third TR it. First move is definitely the crux, but not a bad climb after that. Like everyone else said, decent gear (only my third gear lead), relatively easy moves, just watch the swing at the top if you are top roping and your climber isn't as experienced. Would recommend if you are like me and using Peterskill as a trad-practice area. Sep 24, 2012

Artie Morenz

5.5

I don't understand why the description says the starting move is hard to protect. There is a vertical crack at the start that is EZ to protect with cams. Fun climb. Jun 17, 2015

4th St

One simply can't imagine a "5.5" leader" backing off this climb.

Like some others in Peterskill, it's a bit over-rated relative to the Trapps. Is ideal for a beginning leader. Dec 8, 2017

Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY

5.5

This is an excellent and relatively easy to protect climb. I did not feel that the crux at the start was too hard for the grade, may be just mental. However, the straight up finish, which is how the most recent Marty Molitoris and Mike Rawdon guidebook draws it, had some thought provoking moves that were in the 5.5-5.6 territory. I did not go left, so I cannot comment on the quality of climbing there, but the straight up finish was really nice and recommended, just not 5.4. May 14, 2018

Gunkiemike

Eriks - sorry about that line in the guidebook; we did not intend to describe a direct finish. The text description is more accurate: finish a few feet right of the arete. That keeps the grade reasonable. But FWIW most folks who toprope this route do finish more "directly" simply due to the position of their rope. May 15, 2018

Roshan S
New Rochelle New York

Do it just for the sake of doing it. Kling-On is a better climb but this is very easy. Not much pro but you don't need much anyhow. Mar 28, 2021

The Weavers
High Falls NY

Excellent rock quality. One of the best easy routes in Peterskill. Sep 11, 2021

Scott Doering
The Gunks

5.4

Probably one of my favorite climbs in the area. Plenty of pro and a couple interesting moves. There is plenty of pro for the move off the ground. I didn’t find that move to be too difficult, but I’m 6’2” with long arms and legs so I’m sure that helped. Definitely give it a shot even if you climb at a higher grade. Very fun! May 26, 2022