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Routes in Fantasy Island

Fantasia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minute Men Arete, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr Toad's Wild Ride S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vortex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Jack Marshall Sam Owings
Page Views: 4,308 total, 32/month
Shared By: duh on Jan 3, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fantasia starts just right of The Minute Men Arete, to the right and under a large boulder. Follow brown painted hangers up the right side of the slab. The route gets steeper with large jugs. The last 20' the holds get smaller on perfect brown rock. Crux near the top. Local classic!

Fantasia is probably 10d/11a but that rating wasn't available.

Protection

10 bolts to a chain anchor. Slightly longer draws on the lower bolts will help the rope run smoothly when you are on the crux at the top.

Photos

@susan peplow - What routes at NJC do you recommend that are better? Apr 7, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
A well known route and following the positive reviews we figured it would be great to do while in the area. What we found was opening section to be low angle and slabby. Ho hum movement over stone with the most excitement being to not kick down little pieces of rock and shale from the various little shelves along the way. The upper section is vertical and thoughtful as you plan your course to the anchor. The last two (thoughtfully placed) bolts and gaining the anchor are for certain the crux.

Overall - the route is fun, long and absolutely worth doing. But to be considered a classic? Not hardly, there are much better area routes to be had. Jan 29, 2016
Clif Clap  
 
Fun route with lots of opportunities to rest and shake out, including some very large holds to stand on right below the crux and consider your beta. Jan 1, 2014
Keegan Dimmick
Winchester, VA
  5.10d
Keegan Dimmick   Winchester, VA
  5.10d
Doesn't matter what the grade is, climb this route and make it your first 11A red point! Apr 8, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
An absolute classic! Don't let the progressively steeper moves lull you to a rude awakening as you face the suddenly vertical and somewhat sequential crimps. A highly recommended route for the grade. Jan 3, 2007