Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Curtis Glass and Steve Ritchie
Page Views: 1,611 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jethro Bodine-Clampett on Jan 3, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

One of the few "true classics" at Lost Wall, this route actually has 3 variations. For the original route, climb the shallow corner to the top, then move left to an RP sized weakness. Finish by moving up to the ledge, then left through a V shaped roof/slot. For a 5.9- version, after reaching the top of the shallow corner, climb straight up through a short runout section to the same ledge as the original and move left to the V roof. The third variation is actually a separate route called "Easy Street", 5.8. Wander off to the right after the shallow corner and finish on a ledge.

Location

Walk past Booze and Broads to the end of the dihedral area. About 100ft past this point, you will see a very tall slab split by a shallow left facing corner that ends about halfway up, with orange roofs at the top.

Protection

You'll need some smaller cams in addition to the usual standard rack. Nuts work very well on this climb, too.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
This is a cool route. I think we did something along the lines of the middle variation, though it's hard to say for sure since the guy I was seconding tends to make his own route "variations." Jan 3, 2007
Jethro Bodine-Clampett
Hixson, Tn
  5.10a
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
  5.10a
I have to say, I've never tried the original 10a variation. That seam looks awful thin. Jan 6, 2007
TobyTowne
Dalton, GA
TobyTowne   Dalton, GA
The protection on the 10a is very thin. There is only one 10a move though. The middle line is also very cool. Easy Street is very dirty and probably hasn't been climbed in a long time. Sep 30, 2013