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Routes in Lost Wall

Angels and Demons T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Angels corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Baby Buzzard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Pig T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Booze and Broads T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clodhopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Defoliator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Didn't Make it to Sunset T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ethnic Cleanser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Foreign Policy T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Franklin Boys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Future's Window S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden Club T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Get Your Wings T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Girl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guzzler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Precious T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Laurel Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Linda's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maybe Not T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Megster T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Netherworld Excavation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nightmares T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nooner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradigm S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Persistence T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pipe Full of Fun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Place in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prevailing Winds T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Refrigerator Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return of the Jedi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Roger's Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Samurai T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Short and sweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Somalian Hunger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steggo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sweet and sour T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tree Hugger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Twister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
U.S. Customs Blues T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Jacket T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
boy scout crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
crew leader T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
kids korner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
perfect timing T WI4 M1 PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Curtis Glass and Steve Ritchie
Page Views: 1,534 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jethro Bodine-Clampett on Jan 3, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

One of the few "true classics" at Lost Wall, this route actually has 3 variations. For the original route, climb the shallow corner to the top, then move left to an RP sized weakness. Finish by moving up to the ledge, then left through a V shaped roof/slot. For a 5.9- version, after reaching the top of the shallow corner, climb straight up through a short runout section to the same ledge as the original and move left to the V roof. The third variation is actually a separate route called "Easy Street", 5.8. Wander off to the right after the shallow corner and finish on a ledge.

Location

Walk past Booze and Broads to the end of the dihedral area. About 100ft past this point, you will see a very tall slab split by a shallow left facing corner that ends about halfway up, with orange roofs at the top.

Protection

You'll need some smaller cams in addition to the usual standard rack. Nuts work very well on this climb, too.

Photos

TobyTowne
Dalton, GA
TobyTowne   Dalton, GA
The protection on the 10a is very thin. There is only one 10a move though. The middle line is also very cool. Easy Street is very dirty and probably hasn't been climbed in a long time. Sep 30, 2013
Jethro Bodine-Clampett
Hixson, Tn
 
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
 
I have to say, I've never tried the original 10a variation. That seam looks awful thin. Jan 6, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
This is a cool route. I think we did something along the lines of the middle variation, though it's hard to say for sure since the guy I was seconding tends to make his own route "variations." Jan 3, 2007