Defoliator [Suggest Change]
Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Curtis Glass and Steve Ritchie|
|Page Views:||1,567 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Jethro Bodine-Clampett on Jan 3, 2007|
Description [Suggest Change]
One of the few "true classics" at Lost Wall, this route actually has 3 variations. For the original route, climb the shallow corner to the top, then move left to an RP sized weakness. Finish by moving up to the ledge, then left through a V shaped roof/slot. For a 5.9- version, after reaching the top of the shallow corner, climb straight up through a short runout section to the same ledge as the original and move left to the V roof. The third variation is actually a separate route called "Easy Street", 5.8. Wander off to the right after the shallow corner and finish on a ledge.
Location [Suggest Change]
Walk past Booze and Broads to the end of the dihedral area. About 100ft past this point, you will see a very tall slab split by a shallow left facing corner that ends about halfway up, with orange roofs at the top.
Protection [Suggest Change]
You'll need some smaller cams in addition to the usual standard rack. Nuts work very well on this climb, too.