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Agony Arch

5.11b, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 14 votes
FA: Chris Robbins, 1970's
California > Inland Empire > Riverside Quarr… > (q) Agony Arch Area
Access Issue: CLOSED Details

Description

One of the finest crack lines at the Riverside Quarry, this is located on the slightly overhung face around and left from Hump or Dump.

Climb the vertical thin/hand crack as it arches up and left and gets slowly wider and steeper, the crux towards the end as you either jam wide fists near the lip or struggle to get smaller, better jams deeper inside the crack which flares; handrailing the lip is another option if you have the juice.

A local classic that would see much more traffic if in another locale.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches,  chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Agony Arch
[Hide Photo] Agony Arch
Brad Singer midway up Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
[Hide Photo] Brad Singer midway up Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
[Hide Photo] Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Ryan on Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
[Hide Photo] Ryan on Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
[Hide Photo] Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Dunbar
Ridgway, CO
[Hide Comment] Is it possible to access the anchor from above to set up a toprope on this climb? Dec 10, 2010
Tommy G.
Fort Polk, LA
[Hide Comment] Not really... there are 3 bolts above the vertical section of the crack that you might be able to set something up to work that part & maybe some of the arch. Feb 15, 2011
Mike Fogarty
La Quinta, CA
[Hide Comment] This route is very easy to set up for top rope, bolted and safe to do laps on, just don't fall near the start. Mar 8, 2012
The Ruin-er
CA
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] if youre going TR it place some directionals Jul 21, 2012
Roger Suen
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] There is a lot of bird shit at the base. Like a Chuckie Cheese ball pit of bird shit. Also lots of it in the crack that will prob fall out on to you and possibly smear on your hands as you fist the last section of the climb.

Bring hand sanitizer Jan 7, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Could also be called Aviary Anal Arch. So much bird crap everywhere. It was pretty gross... Had to crimp down on a mound of it up in the upper off width section. The lower/vertical section is amazing and definitely 4 stars. I took (and placed gear) in the following order: red alien, 0.75 C4, grey alien, #1 C4, #2 C4, 3.5 camalot, #4 C4, #3 C4, #2 C4, draws for the anchor. The first go on this route I only took one #2 and was really wanting the second #2. It really makes a difference! The 3.5 camalot fit perfectly in the first wide section. Much more solid than either the #3 or #4 C4. This arch is amazing and would be super classic in another more traveled trad area. The bird crap is a huge downer. I would not recommend climbing this in warmer temperatures when the bird crap starts to get mushy. There are probably 150 birds living in this crack. Jan 14, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] soooo good! I worked this route with my friend Ben. First attempt I lead up to the offwidth section and got to tired to finished. We tagged team the route and he finished the rest of the route. Next day he lead it all the way and I TRed it with one fall at the 2nd wide section. We used a #5 on this route but 2 #4 C4 would be good at the offwidth where it starts slanting left. Aug 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] Would anyone have any objections to me adding another bolt to this anchor? it seems pretty sketch to me as for as anchors go..
Mar 20, 2017
C Miller
CA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Alex - Add a bolt or better yet replace the whole anchor, thanks. Let me know if you need any help or hardware for the project. Mar 20, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
[Hide Comment] A better strategy would be to replace the anchor with Stainless Steel hardware, not to add another bolt to that deteriorating anchor. As with Chris, I'd be willing to support the effort, if you need the help. Dec 28, 2018