Agony Arch

Is it possible to access the anchor from above to set up a toprope on this climb? Dec 10, 2010

Not really... there are 3 bolts above the vertical section of the crack that you might be able to set something up to work that part & maybe some of the arch. Feb 15, 2011

This route is very easy to set up for top rope, bolted and safe to do laps on, just don't fall near the start. Mar 8, 2012

Ground up is the way to go Jul 21, 2012

if youre going TR it place some directionals Jul 21, 2012

There is a lot of bird shit at the base. Like a Chuckie Cheese ball pit of bird shit. Also lots of it in the crack that will prob fall out on to you and possibly smear on your hands as you fist the last section of the climb.

Bring hand sanitizer Jan 7, 2013

Could also be called Aviary Anal Arch. So much bird crap everywhere. It was pretty gross... Had to crimp down on a mound of it up in the upper off width section. The lower/vertical section is amazing and definitely 4 stars. I took (and placed gear) in the following order: red alien, 0.75 C4, grey alien, #1 C4, #2 C4, 3.5 camalot, #4 C4, #3 C4, #2 C4, draws for the anchor. The first go on this route I only took one #2 and was really wanting the second #2. It really makes a difference! The 3.5 camalot fit perfectly in the first wide section. Much more solid than either the #3 or #4 C4. This arch is amazing and would be super classic in another more traveled trad area. The bird crap is a huge downer. I would not recommend climbing this in warmer temperatures when the bird crap starts to get mushy. There are probably 150 birds living in this crack. Jan 14, 2013

soooo good! I worked this route with my friend Ben. First attempt I lead up to the offwidth section and got to tired to finished. We tagged team the route and he finished the rest of the route. Next day he lead it all the way and I TRed it with one fall at the 2nd wide section. We used a #5 on this route but 2 #4 C4 would be good at the offwidth where it starts slanting left. Aug 6, 2013

Would anyone have any objections to me adding another bolt to this anchor? it seems pretty sketch to me as for as anchors go..
Mar 20, 2017

Alex - Add a bolt or better yet replace the whole anchor, thanks. Let me know if you need any help or hardware for the project. Mar 20, 2017