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Routes in Pseudomania Area

Pseudomania T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Sterling Wilson
Page Views: 1,023 total · 8/month
Shared By: TrevorB on Jan 1, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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7 Opinions

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Description

Steep finger and hands corner through clean rock offering great pro. Can also be TR'd (with plenty of swing potential.)

Some of the jams have nice sharp features, taping is recommended unless you're a universal donor.

After you round the corner, its easy, juggy climbing to the top.

It would warrant more stars were it longer (and if I didn't get bit like mad by the mean-spirited ants at the bottom.)

Location

From the top of the crag, this climb is directly below the rightmost hangers. Rap down onto a comfy (and scenic) ledge for access to the route.

Protection

Pro from 1" to about 2.5"

Photos

Michelle Lynn
Moab, UT
 
Michelle Lynn   Moab, UT
 
Awesome little crack that packs a bunch of adventure. Without much trouble the rappel lands you on a little gangplank. We were lucky and escaped the ants. The crack is much steeper than it looks, but just as short. Recommended rack: .4-3 Camalot (optional doubles .5-2). Go climb it! Preferably at sunset. Feb 5, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.11-
Richard Shore  
  5.11-
As quality a line as The Nose on Gibraltar rock. Awesome and incredibly steep! the photos here do not do the overhang justice. a bit bouldery at the start and at the finish pulling around the lip. wild stemming moves with bomber hand jams towards the top. get on this thing!

The approach isnt bad from the trail atop Upper Gibraltar, especially now that all the manzanitas are burned up. A note about the rappel in to the base - it is very much free-hanging, and you almost miss the belay ledge on the way down. I reached my foot out to pull myself towards the ledge, but you could probably also swing back and forth if you arent as long-legged. Feb 12, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I visited this rarely visited crag with high hopes and tons of enthusiasm, but the latter and the former were running in short supply after the scrubby approach, the biting ants, and the bee nest. It felt like a truly an adventurous day in the Santa Barbara backcountry, even though the road was within view. The climb looks amazing, though. Short, but amazing. Mar 17, 2008