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Routes in Beetle Buttress

Beatle Baily T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beatles, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Beetle Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let It Be T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Beetle Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Volvo Station Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, September 1994
Page Views: 375 total, 3/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 1, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts on the left side of the west face. Climb a prominent roof crack (10b) then face climb up and right past several horizontals (10b/c, Aliens and TCUs needed). Very good quality rock, maybe three out of five stars. Scramble off to the south.

I also toproped a direct start up the face just right of the roof crack (10d).

Protection

TCUs and Aliens from .4 to 1 inch, medium stoppers, and Camalots: two #1, one #2, two #3, and one #4.

Photos

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C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Easily the best route on the crag, this features quality climbing past horizontals with adequate protection that's not always obvious right away. Jan 2, 2007