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Routes in (q) Agony Arch Area

Agony Arch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chupacabra S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Debauchery S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Delinquency (aka Agony Arete) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Every Dog Has It's Day TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear the Smear S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get on the Good Foot TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hump or Dump T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Quake and Shake Flakes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stem Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stemsation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valiant Flail to No Avail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,663 total, 20/month
Shared By: Isaac T. on Dec 30, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Follow the crack below the roof onto the slab, follow the direction of the two (2) bolts to the obvious hand crack below the roof, follow up and over the top of the roof. Be careful in the crack above the roof there is some loose rock. Pop over the top and it is easy 5th class to the chains

Location

This area is seldom visited as it is in direct sun early in the morning. Follow the dirt road all the way right around the corner of the main wall area.
There is a walk off around the back that is fairly easy just be careful of the loose rock and sand.

Protection

2 bolts with an assortment of small cams and nuts up to 2".

Photos

Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.9 PG13
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.9 PG13
Did this as my first trad lead. I really enjoyed the problem solving and the movement. A BD #1 cam is the biggest I used, but mostly just small wires. Saw a huge lizard come out of a larger crack towards the beginning when I was placing a stopper. He was pretty cool looking. May 31, 2016
decent route, start is a little spicey and probably deserving of the pg-13 rating. You can get a good stopper in from the ground but if you blow the moves onto the slab you are probably going to deck.

That one move could be called 10a but the rest of the route is no harder than 5.8 Oct 11, 2012
Thanks, does the top crux go at 8+ or is that just the bottom? Edit: the new guidebook calls this climb a 10a... what's the fair grade? Jan 23, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.8 PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.8 PG13
The PG13 rating comes from the unprotected and bouldery crux start which you can see in one of the beta photos. An easier and safer alternative is to start around the corner to the right and climb easy slab up and left to reach the first bolt. The upper crack section is well-protected and no harder than 5.7 or so. Jan 23, 2012
Out of curiosity, where is it pg13 for the pro? Does the hand crack not take good gear? Jan 23, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.8 PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.8 PG13
An enjoyable climb with a cruxy start getting established on the slabby face above and another crux higher as you handjam the initial corner. Although short, this features some good positioning slightly higher on the exposed, finishing crack. Jan 3, 2007