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Bag of Bones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bury The Bone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Butterknife T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chillin at the Grill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Darshan (aka Ripoff) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Expressway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feudal Beerlords T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fork it Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nate's Proud Pearl Necklace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nirvana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Offramp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Holer T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Peel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road kill S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Santana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrutinized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skeletons in the Closet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spinal Fracture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tumbling Dice S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Uncertainty Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Leary, Joe Rousek & Tony Puppo, 1989
Page Views: 954 total · 7/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Dec 29, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

You got to roll me.

This exciting face climbing on this pitch may deserve the R rating ML gives it, but it can be done safely. The crux comes after the first bolt and there is a good chance of crapping out if your partner in crime is not belaying from the correct spot. It is tempting to belay from the anchors atop Return to Forever, but this will introduce enough slack into the system that decking from the crux becomes a much greater possibility. Instead, belay off gear at the top left end of the Hotcake Flake, perhaps 15' up and L of the RTF anchors. Cheating like I don't know how, it is possible to place some sus gear between the first bolt and the crux (red or gold Camalot, red or brown Tri Cam). The gear above the crux is widely spaced but the falls would be clean -- you won't see the time flashing by.

Descent: rap 100' to the top of the Hotcake Flake, then rap 50' from there to the ground using the Return to Forever anchors.

Location

On the left side of the Santana Pillar. Approach either by climbing Hotcake Flake or an unpleasant 5.7 corner to the left of it.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 pins and some smaller gear -- sixes and sevens and nines.

Photos

I would guess for most people that lead this route it will be R rated plus you will be extra pumped trying to find gear that works. Most will not get a good piece before the last bolt and a fall from there would land you on a ledge for sure. Oct 25, 2016
I finaly got on this wonderful route. This is how I went about it to make it as safe as posible. First of all belaying from the top of the hot cake flake will not keep you from decking onto that ledge even if your belayer is tucked away up in the left corner crack. What will keep you of that ledge is a gold camelot placed in the pocket after the first bolt. First of all my belayer stayed on the ground. I climbed the 5.7 crack to the ledge it was very easy so I did not place any protection but there is no reason why you could not. I Placed a red camelot in the left side crack on the ledge then climbed up to the first bolt cliped it then easily down climbed and uncliped my cam that was in the crack to avoid rope drag. You could just put a long runner on that cam and call it good. If you placed protection in the crack below you could lower down and clean it before you proceded up the line. Having the belayer on the ground made more sense to me, more comfortable and safe. After the fisrt couple bolts the climbing is easy and I placed one yellow metolius in a solid pocket you could find other pockets for more gear but the falls are all safe after the second bolt is clipped even if you do not place any other gea. The climb is safe and really does not need the R rating ML gives it. It is a bit spicy. The moves are amazing and the position is just about the best in the gorge. With the river rushing below you and a lot of air you do not want to miss this climb. One more little tidbit I rapeled to the steps before the crack starts and down climbed the last 10 feet to the ground probaly 5.2 with a 70 meter rope. Either that or rap to the hot cake flake and use the anchor there to go the rest of the way. Hope this helps. Apr 20, 2013
Great description very wity love that entire album. Mar 19, 2013
Not as hard as other 10d's in the gorge but way spicy. Can lower to the ground with an 80m rope Mar 1, 2012