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Cross Eyed
5.12b,
Sport, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 4 from 25
votes
FA: G. Collum, C. Carr, Jan 1996
International
> Asia
> Thailand
> S - Islands & B…
> Laem Phra Nang…
> Tonsai Bay
> Melting Wall
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning
here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the
Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Of the few dozen routes I did, this one was my favorite route in the Railey/Ton Sai area. It is a long route with the crux a few bolts from the top and a big pump factor. Nice stems to a stalactite up top stop the pump clock after the small holds-crux a bolt or two before reaching the anchor.
Location
Go left from the hole in from the path from the Fire Wall that enters to the Melting Wall. Go left past 4 short low-angle routes and up onto a ledge at the base of the wall, then left past a single bolted line, Affenhitze. The next route left, and 3rd from the left end of the wall is Cross Eyed. The route climbs up and left through continuously steep rock to a bolted anchor below a set of huge stalactites. I recall that a long rope was required to get off of this route, as the top lowers off to low ground below the base of the route.
Protection
A dozen draws or more and a 60m rope to get down from the anchors up top.
[Hide Photo] Me leading Cross Eyed and sweating like Nixon, as the guidebook suggested I'd be.
[Hide Photo] Getting horizontal for a clip on Cross Eyed
London (sort of)
This is probably one of the single best pitches on Laem Phra Nang. If you clip the chains from the slopey jugs below the rings, you didn't finish! I already moved the anchor back to it's original height once but I think someone's lowered it again. Don't cheat yourself! Feb 28, 2011
Cambridge