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Texas Crude

5.10b, Trad, 30 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 48 votes
FA: Chris Lyons
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Buzzard's Roost > E Face of Buzzard's R…
Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Texas Crude is a fantastic steep crack that is easily protected and soaks up many slightly tight hand jams.

Location

Texas Crude is one of the far left climbs on the East Face. Find Fear of Flying (splitter, tall, and wide crack in dihedral), and look left for steep hand crack that begins on a small boulder step.

Protection

Bring a small E-Rock rack heavy on the #1 Camalots. There are no anchors up top, but you can scramble up and far right to find the descent trail, which leads you to the far right base of the East Face.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jason gives Scott a catch as he begins the tight hands of Texas Crude
[Hide Photo] Jason gives Scott a catch as he begins the tight hands of Texas Crude
Travis cleaning Texas Crude
[Hide Photo] Travis cleaning Texas Crude
Great jams, nice light
[Hide Photo] Great jams, nice light

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Best practice for jamming in the park. Run many laps on this so you can be strong when you get out of texas. Jun 22, 2007
Bjorn
WNC
[Hide Comment] I have always felt this is the best crack in the Fear of Flying alcove and one of the best in the park. Kicks FOF's ass for sheer crack climbing bliss. Mar 25, 2009
[Hide Comment] I belayed the first ascent. Chris insisted on doing it barefoot. Crude indeed.... Aug 6, 2012
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, TH
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] You're gonna wanna tape up for this one. Great climb! Jan 15, 2016
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] There's a good horn of rock on the flake slab thing above the route to build an anchor for belaying up a second. Doubled up from .75-2 with one 3 and one 4 for this. Didn't need them all
But that felt like a comfortable rack for me. Nov 30, 2016