PRINT: Rock Climb Texas Crude, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Texas Crude

5.10b, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 70 votes
FA: Chris Lyons
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Buzzard's Roost > E Face of Buzzard's R…

Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.

Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.

For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…

830-685-3636

Description

Texas Crude is a fantastic steep crack that is easily protected and soaks up many slightly tight hand jams.

Location

Texas Crude is one of the far left climbs on the East Face. Find Fear of Flying (splitter, tall, and wide crack in dihedral), and look left for steep hand crack that begins on a small boulder step.

Protection

Bring a small E-Rock rack heavy on the #1 Camalots. There are no anchors up top, but you can scramble up and far right to find the descent trail, which leads you to the far right base of the East Face.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Travis cleaning Texas Crude

Jason gives Scott a catch as he begins the tight hands of Texas Crude

Gary L onsighting TX Crude

Great jams, nice light

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO

Best practice for jamming in the park. Run many laps on this so you can be strong when you get out of texas. Jun 22, 2007

Bjorn
WNC

I have always felt this is the best crack in the Fear of Flying alcove and one of the best in the park. Kicks FOF's ass for sheer crack climbing bliss. Mar 25, 2009

Garth Magee

I belayed the first ascent. Chris insisted on doing it barefoot. Crude indeed.... Aug 6, 2012

Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thighland

5.10-

You're gonna wanna tape up for this one. Great climb! Jan 15, 2016

Dom R
Estes Park, CO

There's a good horn of rock on the flake slab thing above the route to build an anchor for belaying up a second. Doubled up from .75-2 with one 3 and one 4 for this. Didn't need them all
But that felt like a comfortable rack for me. Nov 30, 2016