PRINT: Rock Climb Shiva's Last Dance, The Tennessee Wall

Shiva's Last Dance

5.9-, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 51 votes
FA: Rob Robinson, Tim Cumbo - 1985
Tennessee > Tennessee Wall > T-Wall East

Description

A fun crack climb that leads to face climbing and a bulgy crux toward the top.

Start in a good crack and follow a left-facing corner. Continue up the face to a bulge; work left and up to the top.

Location

Starts about 10' right of Don't Tell a Soul.

Protection

Standard rack, no large gear needed; bolted anchors (quicklinks).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Here's the route that starts in the crack where the tree is. Where the climber in the picture is go right to pull the roof. If you go straight above the climber it's 9+

The route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Mekolites
Atlanta, GA

Bolts with quick links at the top.

Also...I think you go right and over the right edge of the bugle/flake??? Mar 4, 2007

saxfiend
Decatur, GA

5.9

Jeff Mekolites wrote:Also...I think you go right and over the right edge of the bugle/flake???

When I toproped it long ago, I started up the right side and Jerry was calling up beta that I should have gone left; by then I was committed and went ahead and pulled the move. So I guess right or left is your choice!

Thanks for the anchor info, I'll update the route. Mar 4, 2007

Joey Wolfe

5.9 PG13

This one is a touch run out in places.

And don't get suckered right at the second small roof, pull right over the flake/edge of the small roof. I went too far right like a bonehead and it is a bad scene. Mar 23, 2009

Thierry
Pocatello, ID

Fun moves. Good route but I would definitely call it run-out in several places. The first roof is an interesting problem to solve, but protects well underneath. The second roof/edge to the right is just burly but ok. I found the placements especially above the first roof to be few and tricky. Take all your smallest wires (and pink, red tricam). Nov 13, 2011

J Hollada
Atlanta, GA

Personal favorite at T-Wall and has the advantage of being overlooked by the tourists scampering to hang their hammocks beneath the trade routes. Dec 11, 2017

Mello Onsight
Alpharetta GA,

Just added two pics. The route starts in the crack where the tree is. Where the climber in the picture is at the last roof, go right to pull the roof. If you go straight above the climber it's 9+. Definitely run out above first roof Dec 8, 2019

Steve Climber
Salt Lake City

Look out for a loose block just after pulling around the horn in the second roof, doesn't seem like it's going anywhere soon but something to be aware of. Mar 23, 2021

David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…

I suspect the 5.9- grade stays right of the dihedral at the second roof. Staying left of the roof, in the dihedral, felt on the harder side of 5.9 to me (I'm not saying 5.9+ because we all know that grade means nothing). The harder way looks like the more natural, aesthetic line to me, but that's just, like, my opinion, man.

The part above the crux is pretty run out. I was able to get in some micro nuts and small tricams, but I'd say it's a coin flip whether the rock around them would have held in a fall. Feb 26, 2024