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5.8, Trad, TR, 60 ft,
Avg: 2.8 from 55 votes
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > f. Off Limits & Reach…
Excellent route in a right-facing corner system, with two cruxes.
Start in a right-facing corner approx 50 feet right of First Day; the base of the cliff is somewhat open there. Follow corner system through two roofs to the top.
Adequate. Bolted anchor at top of cliff. Easy walkoff.
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Taking a rest before reaching around.
Looking up the route, from the base.
Beginning of Reach Around
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Pro is good. You can place solid cams under the roof and after pulling around the roof from a good if slightly awkward stance before scooting up.
Jul 14, 2013
Fun easy climb...good pros. Found a copperhead on the left ledge right after pulling the roof.
Jul 26, 2013
New Paltz, NY
So far everyone I've seen lead this route trends left after the "reach around" roof, following the path of least resistance. This drops you off at the top of the cliff about 6 feet left of the bolted anchors.
However, top roping this to clean, I discovered that trending right after the reach around yields what I consider a nicer ending sequence that drops you off at the bolts. If I lead this again I'll do it that way.
Jun 26, 2018