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First Day

5.7, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 46 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > f. Off Limits & Reach…

Description

There are two ways to do this route, once past the huge horizontal offwidth: left open book goes 5.7, right open book goes 5.8.

Location

Climb left side (left-facing corner) of cut-out area straight up to huge horizontal, then take your pick of open books -- left side, or right side.

Protection

Adequate. Can sling large boulder for anchor, and put in additional pieces under it. The only trees in the vicinity are Pitch Pines.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice cracks in the lower part of the route.
[Hide Photo] Nice cracks in the lower part of the route.
First Day showing the version to the right which is the most direct and obvious. I tried it to the left after leading it and found that that a bit easier.
[Hide Photo] First Day showing the version to the right which is the most direct and obvious. I tried it to the left after leading it and found that that a bit easier.
First Day
[Hide Photo] First Day

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Tried twice but got to the bottom of the crux and couldn't figure out a sequence to get into either 'book'. Next time perhaps.

Fun and stiff 5.7 climbing, with some layback moves, up to the ceiling. Jul 12, 2010
[Hide Comment] Great Climb, found it easier to go left at the finish. Better gear and better hand holds to top out. Going right much more sloping holds till a really big "thank goodness" hold above the slopers. But definitely a 3 star climb from bottom to top. May be one of the best 5.7 climbs in the area. Jul 14, 2011
[Hide Comment] Nice Route. Good Pro all the way. Oct 18, 2012
David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This and a few other routes in the area make me think that Peterskill is getting softer ratings in comparison to the rest of the Gunks. This (via the left book) would be 5.6 in the Trapps. Yet it's 5.7+ in the app. Perhaps the right book is harder--I haven't done it.

It's a wonderful climb, though. A nice Peterskill trifecta around the grade would be First Day, Genuflect, and Cool Hand Luke. Oct 17, 2018
David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Follow up to my previous comment: I did the right book and it definitely feels harder to me than the left book, maybe 5.6+ or 5.7, but definitely not 5.8 as in the description above. Jun 26, 2021
The Weavers
High Falls NY
[Hide Comment] Great hands jams low on the route and a cool layback up top. Great protection opportunities throughout. An excellent lead. Sep 11, 2021