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Routes in f. Tom's Wall & Next West Face

Around Already TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bent Crankarm T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Broken Pedals T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack-A-Lack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
First Day T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
How It's Done T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Off Limits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach Around T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,978 total, 15/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: JSH

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Description

There are two ways to do this route, once past the huge horizontal offwidth: left open book goes 5.7, right open book goes 5.8.

Location

Climb left side (left-facing corner) of cut-out area straight up to huge horizontal, then take your pick of open books -- left side, or right side.

Protection

Adequate. Can sling large boulder for anchor, and put in additional pieces under it. The only trees in the vicinity are Pitch Pines.

Photos

clando  
Nice Route. Good Pro all the way. Oct 18, 2012
Great Climb, found it easier to go left at the finish. Better gear and better hand holds to top out. Going right much more sloping holds till a really big "thank goodness" hold above the slopers. But definitely a 3 star climb from bottom to top. May be one of the best 5.7 climbs in the area. Jul 14, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
Tried twice but got to the bottom of the crux and couldn't figure out a sequence to get into either 'book'. Next time perhaps.

Fun and stiff 5.7 climbing, with some layback moves, up to the ceiling. Jul 12, 2010