Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,280 total · 16/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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There are two ways to do this route, once past the huge horizontal offwidth: left open book goes 5.7, right open book goes 5.8.


Climb left side (left-facing corner) of cut-out area straight up to huge horizontal, then take your pick of open books -- left side, or right side.


Adequate. Can sling large boulder for anchor, and put in additional pieces under it. The only trees in the vicinity are Pitch Pines.


Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Tried twice but got to the bottom of the crux and couldn't figure out a sequence to get into either 'book'. Next time perhaps.

Fun and stiff 5.7 climbing, with some layback moves, up to the ceiling. Jul 12, 2010
Great Climb, found it easier to go left at the finish. Better gear and better hand holds to top out. Going right much more sloping holds till a really big "thank goodness" hold above the slopers. But definitely a 3 star climb from bottom to top. May be one of the best 5.7 climbs in the area. Jul 14, 2011
Nice Route. Good Pro all the way. Oct 18, 2012
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
This and a few other routes in the area make me think that Peterskill is getting softer ratings in comparison to the rest of the Gunks. This (via the left book) would be 5.6 in the Trapps. Yet it's 5.7+ in the app. Perhaps the right book is harder--I haven't done it.

It's a wonderful climb, though. A nice Peterskill trifecta around the grade would be First Day, Genuflect, and Cool Hand Luke. Oct 17, 2018