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The Black Hole

5.10, Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.6 from 10 votes
FA: Jay Smith, Dougald McDonald, Nick Nordblum 1980
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 10-Pine Creek C… > Brass Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The Black Hole shares the first pitch with the Sea of Holes but was climbed first. It is this first pitch that has the large, man-sized hueco from which this route's name is derived.

Pitch 1: Make a few chimney moves to obtain the corner above it and follow this corner system past a thin crack to the two bolt anchor. (5.9, 100 feet)

Pitch 2: Continue straight up through the obvious weakness in the roof. (5.10, 50 feet)

Location

This route is located in the second corner to the left of Topless Twins on the left side of Brass Wall.

Protection

Gear up to a single #4 Camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Black Hole, pitch 1
[Hide Photo] The Black Hole, pitch 1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
[Hide Comment] We climbed the first pitch only, which features some sandy rock but is quite enjoyable. The books say to rap from pitch one with a pair of ropes, but we were able to stretch the rappel with a single 60 meter. Dec 28, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Contrary to the Brock (big red) guidebook, pitch 1 is about 90'. Jan 1, 2007
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is an excellent addition to the popular routes at the Brass Wall. Well worth doing. The second pitch looked pretty spicy. Feb 8, 2011
Socka
Bloomington, IN
5.10c R
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is excellent. The second one is scary mainly due tu dirty and fragile rock. Climbing straight through the roof is really spicy, on-sight is demanding. I broke off a hold when pulling over the roof, but the pro was good, not that scatchy as giude-book reads. The grading depends on how much to the right you go in order to pull over the roof. After the rest in the stem there comes one more thin move and some interesting liebacking too. Taken together, I would recommend only the P1 and then continue by Sea of Holes. Cut Away is also very nice route. Dec 1, 2011
[Hide Comment] I noticed in a guidebook during a recent visit to Brass Wall that I was credited as one of the people on the first ascent of this route, but I didn't make it to Red Rock until the late 1980s, so it couldn't have been me! Possibly Dugald Bremner. Mar 2, 2019