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Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 10
> c. LA Roof
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Good route, but the anchor can be very, very tricky - Either bring a LOT of static line and go way back to some acceptable trees, or sling a closer tree, put yourself on rappel, and downclimb/lower to a ledge with more gear options.
The route starts in front of a large tree with the blue/yellow blaze. Start at obvious right-curving seam at bottom, go up and left to edge of small roof (crux), pull through and follow discontinuous seam to top. Easy walkoff.
Pro seems to be on the PG side, and small. Gear only anchor.