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Little Red Book
5.10a, Sport, 80 ft,
Avg: 2.6 from 95 votes
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
California > High Desert > New Jack City > Box Canyon East > Raven Rocks > Raven Rocks: E Face
The leftmost route on the east face. Follow the shallow right-facing corner past 4 bolts to the obvious beautiful left-facing red corner for 4 more bolts to the anchor.
8 bolts, chain anchor.
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The start of Little Red Book
Some interesting clipping technique may be required.
The upper "book" part of Little Red Book.
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Starting moves are on slick rock. Route is fun enough although you find yourself climbing the right hand wall of the dihedral and clipping bolts behind you. Kinda weird in that sense. Shady and convenient.
Apr 9, 2007
Bolts are on the left wall so the rope runs smoothly and the falls are safe. At least that was the idea.... I did notice when I went back to do it last year, that you must keep an eye out for that 2nd bolt in the upper dihedral and position yourself to clip it. I guess it not a problem though, it has seen several hundred repeats.
Apr 10, 2007
"Shady and convenient."
If you think this route is "shady," you should see the new stuff Jack is putting up.
Apr 11, 2007
Overlord @ FishProducts
Pretty good route and slick at the start. Real nice in the upper book area.
Apr 11, 2007
Agree with Susan's comment.
Mar 13, 2010
Juggy climbing to start then a single tricky move to get established in the upper corner system which is much easier than it looks from the ground. Long, varied and quite enjoyable for the grade.
Oct 13, 2011
Santa Barbara, CA
Found a couple of 5.9 moves, poor rock quality in the middle, and was disappointed by the dihedral as it didn't climb anywhere near as cool as it looked.
Nov 26, 2012
The second bolt along the dihedral does stand out in terms of getting a good clipping position. Stemming works but the left wall is slick. Another option is stacking the feet in the crack along the flake. Feels strange but if you get it it's secure.
May 20, 2013
West Hills, CA
Airy climb. Good 10a that makes ya work for it.
Mar 7, 2017