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Routes in c. LA Roof
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Acute Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Acute Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Battle of the Bulge TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East LA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Escape from LA T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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LA Roof T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sound The Horn TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Russ Clune, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 3,499 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Taino Grosjean on Dec 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
There has been only one reported ascent of this route - Russ Clune climbed it over ten years ago, placing three pairs of two pitons (six pitons total) to protect the roof moves. It's unknown if he placed the pitons on lead or not. Regardless, the route is impressive.
If you look carefully, you can still see the remains of the rusty pitons under the roof. It's unlikely that this route will see a second ascent.
If you look carefully, you can still see the remains of the rusty pitons under the roof. It's unlikely that this route will see a second ascent.
Photos
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