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Routes in Slab Area

A Wing and a Prayer S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
All I Wanted was a Pepsi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Battle of the Bulge S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
By Gully T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Deprived Child T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Deprived Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Shock S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dust Bowl Daze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frictionary T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kemoslabee T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mikey's Mantle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shits and Grins S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shock Treatment S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stranger than Friction T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stripes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Summer Solstice T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad and True T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Winter Solstice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jody Jacobs, Michael Crowder - 1993
Page Views: 2,533 total · 18/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Dec 25, 2006
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Another nice friction climb with a steep start that makes stick-clipping the first bolt a prudent choice.

Follow the steep face to a small overhang (pro can be placed here or in the small vertical crack below it). Continue up the right side of a big flake and onto gradually easier terrain to the top.

Location

About 50' right of Mikey's Mantle.

Protection

Mixed; some small to medium gear is needed to supplement the three bolts. Bolted anchors at the top.

Photos

Joey Wolfe
  5.9
Joey Wolfe  
  5.9
I have never used a stick clip until the day I lead this climb. The ground drops away to the climbers right, so even though you only have to climb 10' to the first bolt, you'll fall 15' and roll/bounce another 10'.... over rocks. No ego that day. Great climb with pleasant moves and exciting but still (somewhat) safely spaced fixed pro. May 11, 2008
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
  5.9
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
  5.9
There are now bolts and rings at the top of this climb. Head more or less straight up (maybe slightly left) from the last bolt to the final overhang. Pull the overhang at a weakness (you can get gear in here), and the bolts will be on the face just above. Jan 6, 2009
Jody Jacobs
NE, GA
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
Good deal on the anchor station, if it's in the right location. I was going to go back and fix that, just never did, I always belayed from the pine tree cluster after going through the weakness in the little overhang at the top. If the station is just over the overhang, directly below the pine tree cluster, it should be good to go. Hopefully it'll put you back on the ground with a 60 meter rope. It's way better than traversing over to the Frictionary anchors like I've seen some folks do. Jan 28, 2009
Jody Jacobs
NE, GA
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
We did this route last weekend and the ring anchors are just right. Thanks go out to whoever installed them.
Also - I think this route should be rated 5.9+ Feb 24, 2009
Ross Beard
Colorado Springs
 
Ross Beard   Colorado Springs
 
Great climb anchors are well placed somewhat difficult to find slightly left of the route under some pine trees great #2 Camalot before pulling the overhang at the top.

Anyone know what the route to the left of the flake is? May 1, 2012
Ezra Ellis
Hotlanta
  5.10- X
Ezra Ellis   Hotlanta
  5.10- X
This is a great route, I'd stick clip the first bolt and be solid on 5.10 slab for this one.

The first block is gone so the pro is sketchy at the remaining flakes.
Jody, the first assentionist, said he may add a bolt; which would turn it in to a G rated route,
Currently it is X rated IMHO! Feb 6, 2015
Luke R 84
Georgia
 
Luke R 84   Georgia
 
Honestly the scariest part is the bottom and it's not that bad if you have a belayer who can catch you or a crash pad. I thought there was ample pro above the bolt. Sep 27, 2016
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
This route is well protected above the start. Make sure you have an attentive spotter or a crash pad and you will be fine. I would not place cams in ANY of the flakes or the horizontal just above the bolt, a large piece of this flake has broken off in the past and the whole thing sounds hollow.

Also, all the bolts are new, thanks to Jeff and the SCC for the upgrade. Oct 9, 2016

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