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Routes in The Comic Strip - N Face

Gumby Poindexter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silver Lining T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take It For Granite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Tubular Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Charles Cole & Gib Lewis, 1982
Page Views: 823 total, 6/month
Shared By: Will S on Dec 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Technical thin/finger crack with jamming and liebacking off the ground to a crux midway up the first crack easing to hands, followed by a large flat ledge and an easier short yet steep arching finger crack to the top. The pro is not great at the crux, but you can get some small brass there. The second should be solid for this one; the traverse out of the first crack to the ledge sets up a good-sized pendulum fall. Pumpy for the rating.

Location

Facing Frontal Lobotomy, this route is about 50 yards to the left, up the gully (this is the obvious drainage left of Comic Book). It is easily visible as a clean crack that reaches the right side of a ledge at 2/3 height followed by another slightly arching crack starting at the center of the ledge and topping out.

Protection

Mostly thin to fingers with a hand-sized piece or two. Small brass can be useful at the crux.

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
careful with any pro placed in the crux stretch of lower crack. the right side of the intermittent thin crevices consists of a long rib of fracturable, flexible, and yes, like someone has said in the tick comments, "crunchy" rock. no worries if cranking through without pro and with power to spare, but likely a ledge hit if a fall pops out one or more of those crux pros Oct 26, 2015
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Fun route, but I was happy to be following rather than leading. Upper crack is pretty straightforward/secure. Recommended rack: doubles of Aliens/TCUs, singles from thin hands to hands, and a set of wires down to small brass. I thought this was quite a bit harder than the Vogel guide gives it. Dec 25, 2006