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Groove Tube

5.9-, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 251 votes
FA: Mark Maffe 1995
International > Asia > Thailand > S - Islands & B… > Laem Phra Nang… > Tonsai Bay > Fire Wall
Warning Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a very cool climb!!!

On the first pitch the crux might be near the ground. The 2nd pitch is seldom done but has a few harder spots.

Mark Maffe discovered the first pitch of Groove Tube in 1995. It was buried beneath jungle growth and he cleaned it, added protection and gave the rating 5.10 (even though it was a very soft rating - he was worried that no one would climb it if he rated it lower, especially given the already soft ratings in that area - and he really wanted people to climb it since it's such a fun climb).
FA info in King's original guidebook was a misprint.

Location

Once you've pulled yourself up the fixed ropes: Walk to the right on the very eroded hill. You can't miss this one, the TUBE!!!

Protection

Draws. I seem to remember something about 2 ropes, but now I'm not sure about that. 2nd pitch might be a long one.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fun, slightly awkward start!
[Hide Photo] Fun, slightly awkward start!
The "famous" Groove Tube on Fire Wall.
[Hide Photo] The "famous" Groove Tube on Fire Wall.
The groovy tube!
[Hide Photo] The groovy tube!
Heading up the tube!
[Hide Photo] Heading up the tube!
Greg Martinez on Groove Tube
[Hide Photo] Greg Martinez on Groove Tube
francois dans groove tube
[Hide Photo] francois dans groove tube
Loved this route!
[Hide Photo] Loved this route!
Really fun stemming
[Hide Photo] Really fun stemming
nearing the top (groove tube is on the right with the green rope)
[Hide Photo] nearing the top (groove tube is on the right with the green rope)
A butt shot that's worth posting.
[Hide Photo] A butt shot that's worth posting.
Getting in the Groove
[Hide Photo] Getting in the Groove
Looking down the tube
[Hide Photo] Looking down the tube

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

reboot
.
[Hide Comment] The second pitch is fairly short and arches to the left. It goes ~5.10. Be warned that a 60m will NOT get you (rappel) down to the ground. There is a set of bolts 100 ft above ground you can rap off of that's somewhat below the 2nd pitch, but please back up the rap as you might swing trying to reach it. Jun 25, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] I believe the first pitch has as many as 11 slings on it. To me, it's a classic and worth waiting for and I thought it was unique. Then again......we didn't have to wait.

~Susan Oct 19, 2007
Livia
Doha, QA
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] I think some of the variability in ratings for this climb has to do with the polished rock combined with the heat and humidity. On a cool(ish), dry(ish) day, this would feel 5.8. On a hot, humid (read--normal) day, this feels like climbing on butter (damp hands combined with chalk) spread on glass and feels more low 5.10. That said, I had a blast. For those that really enjoy climbing unique features on a non-contrived route, this is your climb. Jan 18, 2008
Lindsey Robinson
Silver Spring, MD
 
[Hide Comment] Because of the tube-like nature of the climb, it stays fairly shaded in the morning, but your belayer will be roasting in the morning sun.

definitely squeeze your way through the hole at the start (if you can fit) Nov 21, 2014
[Hide Comment] Before last primrose-time, myself and two beloved friends journeyed to the far east. The destination: Thailand. Following a band of muleteers, we reached a halting place, Tonsai beach. There we all took together our noon tide meal. Feeling conspicuous invitation to ascend a lofty mountain, we commenced to clomb amongst.

Upon tying in I began the ascent, with a cheerful confidence in things to come. Above the stately grove of oaks, a correspondent breeze, like the sweet breath of heaven was blowing on my body. I settled into the climb and felt a gentler happiness, and I gazed with growing love on the silver clouds, and sunshine on the grass: a perfect stillness. No picture of mere memory ever looked so fair.

But, anxious fears intruded and once more made trial on my strength. The climber, gentle creature as he is, hath like the Lover his unruly times. Many feelings oppressed my heart, that hope hath been discouraged. Until, looking up I saw the anchor, glowing like a hermits taper seen through a thick forest. Silence touched me here. Surely not without attendant gleams of soul illumination.

Upon descending, triumphant looks were the common language of all eyes! Lessons of common brotherhood, the plain and universal reason of mankind, the truths of young and old. Three years have flown since I had felt in heart and soul the shock of the huge crags first presence. I have since felt an underthirst of vigour seldom utterly allayed. Jul 10, 2018
Jake123
 
[Hide Comment] Another awesome climb, don't miss it. Also this climb gets extremely warm, specially if the sun is on it. Started climbing at 11 (in September of 2017) and by the time I got to the top you could see each and every hold I had touched because of my sweat marks, I would recommend getting there super early before the day gets hot or waiting until the evening when the sun is behind the cliff. The hike up to it takes you through some jungle with lots of mosquitoes and the belay spot is in full sun, Bring lots of water and be ready to fan your belayer once you get back down because you both might have the beginning stages of heat stroke. Oct 13, 2018
Kian Farahani
Seattle the land of Choss &…
 
[Hide Comment] Really more of a 5.7 or 5.8 climb holds everywhere - jugs and pockets. Pro is a bunch of threads which were bomber when I climbed this in October 2019. Threads are chill because you can visually see how worn they are, bolts not so much. In October this wall is in the sun by 2pm, we climbed this in the morning and got roasted by the sun. Nov 22, 2019
Vlad Alexandrov
Woodinville, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Second pitch is about 5.10b and lots of fun (despite some of the threads being a bit suspect). However, bring a 70m rope or 2 60m unless you want the rappel to take more time than the climb itself :) The second pitch traverses quite a bit which makes for interesting rappelling. There is probably a way to rappel straight down over the roof but you will be free-hanging in space trying to swing to an anchor. I think a 70m will reach all the way to the ground or at least to a point where it's an easy downclimb. Jan 1, 2020
Kevin Crittenden
St. Louis, MO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Iā€™m 6ā€™3ā€ with broad shoulders and I most definitely could not fit thru the hole haha. Jan 26, 2023
Michael Wara
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Excellent and unique climbing at the grade. Lots of bugs. Jan 1, 2024
Jack Copland
Winthrop, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The second pitch is called the 'Polish-Czech Route' and is 5.10c. I listed it here as a seperate route as the majority climb Groove Tube as a single pitch route. Mar 13, 2024
Mitchell McAuslan
Spokane, WA
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] What a cool climb! One of the best easier climbs in Southern Thailand. Going trough the groove is pretty rad. 2 days ago