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Routes in Fire Wall

Boob Tube S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burnt Offerings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fire Show S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fire Starter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
For Helga S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groove Tube S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up in Smoke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Hot Hernias S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Maffe 1995 First Pitch, Ray Bernard? 2nd Pitch
Page Views: 13,564 total · 94/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 24, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


162 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

This is a very cool climb!!!

On the first pitch the crux might be near the ground. The 2nd pitch is seldom done but has a few harder spots.

Mark Maffe discovered the first pitch of Groove Tube in 1995. It was buried beneath jungle growth and he cleaned it, added protection and gave the rating 5.10 (even though it was a very soft rating - he was worried that no one would climb it if he rated it lower, especially given the already soft ratings in that area - and he really wanted people to climb it since it's such a fun climb).
FA info in King's original guidebook was a misprint.

Location

Once you've pulled yourself up the fixed ropes: Walk to the right on the very eroded hill. You can't miss this one, the TUBE!!!

Protection

Draws. I seem to remember something about 2 ropes, but now I'm not sure about that. 2nd pitch might be a long one.
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This is a really fun and unique climb! A couple of things: it's really probably only 5.8, and it gets a big line! both times we walked by fire wall, there were at least 3 parties waiting to get on this thing! It's good, but I wouldn't say it's worth waiting more than 10 minutes for. Lots of hype on this one... Mar 3, 2007
reboot
.
reboot   .
The second pitch is fairly short and arches to the left. It goes ~5.10. Be warned that a 60m will NOT get you (rappel) down to the ground. There is a set of bolts 100 ft above ground you can rap off of that's somewhat below the 2nd pitch, but please back up the rap as you might swing trying to reach it. Jun 25, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I believe the first pitch has as many as 11 slings on it. To me, it's a classic and worth waiting for and I thought it was unique. Then again......we didn't have to wait.

~Susan Oct 19, 2007
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
  5.10-
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
  5.10-
I think some of the variability in ratings for this climb has to do with the polished rock combined with the heat and humidity. On a cool(ish), dry(ish) day, this would feel 5.8. On a hot, humid (read--normal) day, this feels like climbing on butter (damp hands combined with chalk) spread on glass and feels more low 5.10. That said, I had a blast. For those that really enjoy climbing unique features on a non-contrived route, this is your climb. Jan 18, 2008
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Because of the tube-like nature of the climb, it stays fairly shaded in the morning, but your belayer will be roasting in the morning sun.

definitely squeeze your way through the hole at the start (if you can fit) Nov 21, 2014
Genevieve Lampinen
philadelphia
Genevieve Lampinen   philadelphia
Suspect anchor. Rope was very worn, possibly worn through core. Maybe someone can bring up some slings and replace them :) Jan 7, 2016
Before last primrose-time, myself and two beloved friends journeyed to the far east. The destination: Thailand. Following a band of muleteers, we reached a halting place, Tonsai beach. There we all took together our noon tide meal. Feeling conspicuous invitation to ascend a lofty mountain, we commenced to clomb amongst.

Upon tying in I began the ascent, with a cheerful confidence in things to come. Above the stately grove of oaks, a correspondent breeze, like the sweet breath of heaven was blowing on my body. I settled into the climb and felt a gentler happiness, and I gazed with growing love on the silver clouds, and sunshine on the grass: a perfect stillness. No picture of mere memory ever looked so fair.

But, anxious fears intruded and once more made trial on my strength. The climber, gentle creature as he is, hath like the Lover his unruly times. Many feelings oppressed my heart, that hope hath been discouraged. Until, looking up I saw the anchor, glowing like a hermits taper seen through a thick forest. Silence touched me here. Surely not without attendant gleams of soul illumination.

Upon descending, triumphant looks were the common language of all eyes! Lessons of common brotherhood, the plain and universal reason of mankind, the truths of young and old. Three years have flown since I had felt in heart and soul the shock of the huge crags first presence. I have since felt an underthirst of vigour seldom utterly allayed. Jul 10, 2018
Jake123
 
Jake123  
 
Another awesome climb, don't miss it. Also this climb gets extremely warm, specially if the sun is on it. Started climbing at 11 (in September of 2017) and by the time I got to the top you could see each and every hold I had touched because of my sweat marks, I would recommend getting there super early before the day gets hot or waiting until the evening when the sun is behind the cliff. The hike up to it takes you through some jungle with lots of mosquitoes and the belay spot is in full sun, Bring lots of water and be ready to fan your belayer once you get back down because you both might have the beginning stages of heat stroke. 6 days ago

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