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Routes in Fire Wall

Boob Tube S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burnt Offerings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fire Show S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fire Starter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
For Helga S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groove Tube S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up in Smoke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Hot Hernias S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Maffe 1995 First Pitch, Ray Bernard? 2nd Pitch
Page Views: 11,788 total, 89/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 24, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


129 Opinions

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

This is a very cool climb!!!

On the first pitch the crux might be near the ground. The 2nd pitch is seldom done but has a few harder spots.

Mark Maffe discovered the first pitch of Groove Tube in 1995. It was buried beneath jungle growth and he cleaned it, added protection and gave the rating 5.10 (even though it was a very soft rating - he was worried that no one would climb it if he rated it lower, especially given the already soft ratings in that area - and he really wanted people to climb it since it's such a fun climb).
FA info in King's original guidebook was a misprint.

Location

Once you've pulled yourself up the fixed ropes: Walk to the right on the very eroded hill. You can't miss this one, the TUBE!!!

Protection

Draws. I seem to remember something about 2 ropes, but now I'm not sure about that. 2nd pitch might be a long one.
Genevieve Lampinen
philadelphia
Genevieve Lampinen   philadelphia
Suspect anchor. Rope was very worn, possibly worn through core. Maybe someone can bring up some slings and replace them :) Jan 7, 2016
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Because of the tube-like nature of the climb, it stays fairly shaded in the morning, but your belayer will be roasting in the morning sun.

definitely squeeze your way through the hole at the start (if you can fit) Nov 21, 2014
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
  5.10-
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
  5.10-
I think some of the variability in ratings for this climb has to do with the polished rock combined with the heat and humidity. On a cool(ish), dry(ish) day, this would feel 5.8. On a hot, humid (read--normal) day, this feels like climbing on butter (damp hands combined with chalk) spread on glass and feels more low 5.10. That said, I had a blast. For those that really enjoy climbing unique features on a non-contrived route, this is your climb. Jan 18, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I believe the first pitch has as many as 11 slings on it. To me, it's a classic and worth waiting for and I thought it was unique. Then again......we didn't have to wait.

~Susan Oct 19, 2007
reboot
.
reboot   .
The second pitch is fairly short and arches to the left. It goes ~5.10. Be warned that a 60m will NOT get you (rappel) down to the ground. There is a set of bolts 100 ft above ground you can rap off of that's somewhat below the 2nd pitch, but please back up the rap as you might swing trying to reach it. Jun 25, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This is a really fun and unique climb! A couple of things: it's really probably only 5.8, and it gets a big line! both times we walked by fire wall, there were at least 3 parties waiting to get on this thing! It's good, but I wouldn't say it's worth waiting more than 10 minutes for. Lots of hype on this one... Mar 3, 2007