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facebook.com/friendsofindia… saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2… 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
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Firming up the description:
The wall faces west.
P1: Start with a 30' low angle, shallow, right facing corner which takes small gear. Continue up chimney/slot and easy ground to a bolted anchor. ~50 5.9.
P2: The "short wide" section is actually about 100' of vertical #4 Camalots in a a somewhat sandy corner. The "long, low-angle crack" is about 50' long. Where the corner turns to very uninviting munge, about 10' below the anchor, delicately slab traverse straight right on sandy divots with virtually no hands, then up easily to the anchors. ~11c, 170'.
The #4 corner is very burly and was heroically sent by Jason Wells using a single #4 Camalot with about three or four supplemental pieces. (If memory serves, 2 #3 Camalots and 1 #5.) Most people would probably want at least 4 #4's. The low angle crack that follows is a a welcome respite but the the step across was tenuous, unnerving and felt like 5.11 but that could have been nerves.
P3: Start with the crux, 15' of extremely sandy, overhanging #3 Camalots. As the angle lessens, the crack narrows to #2 Camalots. Above you will find chimneying -- not hard, but care must be taken to avoid kicking any stones out of the bottom of the chimney as they could land on the belay. The bolted roof is about 5.9. ~150' (including ~50' of class two walking at the end of the pitch to find anchor rock). Maybe 11- at the start and a lot of that difficulty was attributable to the unprecedented amounts of sand lining the crack.
From the end of the third pitch, the path we took to the summit was circuitous but not traumatic. From the belay at the end of P3, walk climber's right from the belay, moving up the tiers at weaknesses until the far southern/right end of the summit cliffband is reached; from here an easy scramble reaches the summit plateau with the summit itself about 50 yards to the north. Oct 4, 2012