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Chloe's Breakfast Special

5.8, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 200 votes
FA: Dave Quinn 12/97
New Hampshire > Rumney > Parking Lot Wall
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. DetailsDrop down

Description

Its dirty appearance doesn't do it justice--this route is two-star quality as both an end-of-day warm-down, or a nice, early morning warm-up.

Start up low-angle rock at the right end of the cliff, about 10 feet from the stepped, left-facing corner and just right of the dirty gully. (Don't be confused--Chloe's is the third line of bolts left of the corner!!). Clip a couple of bolts while wandering up the slab, clip another bolt at your face, then pass over a quartz dike and step into the climb proper. From here, the route takes you up a fairly innocuous-looking face, littered with great edges, surprise incuts, positive footholds, and fabulous positioning. You will encounter one mantle shelf at about mid-height, then another about 10 feet from the anchors.

Despite the number of holds in your face, Chloe's hides a killer sequence of movements that, once unlocked, flows beautifully. Quick clips at the top.

Enjoy!!

Location

Locate the major left-facing corner at the right end of the main face. The route begins about 10 feet to the left at a low-angle slab, just to the right of a dirty gully.

Protection

MANY BOLTS!! It is possible to back-clean a couple of bolts to cut down on rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nuria high on the route.
[Hide Photo] Nuria high on the route.
Not quite in the photo here but it is on the far left of this route. Well protected and fun route. Sustained for the most of the movement but the hard move is just below the second to last bolt.
[Hide Photo] Not quite in the photo here but it is on the far left of this route. Well protected and fun route. Sustained for the most of the movement but the hard move is just below the second to last bolt.
Very long route
[Hide Photo] Very long route
Damian, age 6, getting into my favorite part of the route.  Below him you can see how it stays a little wet and mossy, but only on the easier, lower part of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Damian, age 6, getting into my favorite part of the route. Below him you can see how it stays a little wet and mossy, but only on the easier, lower part of the climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ladd Raine
Plymouth, NH
  5.8
[Hide Comment] FA is Dave Quinn 12/97 May 15, 2007
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
[Hide Comment] Chloe's is an excellent route. Very well protected and enjoyable moves up the ever steepening slab. We climbed it in wet conditions and escaped just prior to a wild T-storm. Jul 27, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This route is great. Ignore the messy/dirty start. Suck it up and climb this route. You will not be dissapointed. Oct 23, 2010
S. Neoh
5.8
[Hide Comment] Yeah, nice route. A bit sharp but still a v. good moderate route. Just make sure to bring enough draws if you want to clip every bolt.
2.5 stars from me. Oct 23, 2010
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Loved it. The start is pretty messy, but the moves flow nicely at about 5.4 and its not in the main flow of water. The upper section is amazing, full value 5.8 climbing. Jump on it, its worth it :)

Bolts at the top could be skipped if wanted, I climbed past one or two simply because the moves flow so well. Nov 5, 2011
Ming
 
[Hide Comment] Great 5.8 lead for a 5.8 leader. It's progressive, safe, and just technical enough to keep the new leader on his or her toes. Fun route when it's dry enough to run up on it. Feb 27, 2012
[Hide Comment] I would guess that Chloe's breakfast special might be ladybugs, as they in abundance by the top of the route (at least in October). Oct 23, 2017