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Routes in Hueco Wall

Bitter End S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dance This S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good to be Awake S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gun For Hire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Room For Improvement S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ryane's Revenge S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sluttering S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
They All Look The Same S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 2,985 total, 22/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep edging and crimpy, climb up thru huecos. Balancy moves, tricky sequences.

Location

First route on the right from the arete, there's a nice seat in a boulder in front of it.

Protection

7 Bolts to cold-shut anchor.
Sean Cooney
  5.11a/b
Sean Cooney  
  5.11a/b
Very nice route with some fragile rock. Compared to other 11a's I've done, this one seemed a bit harder (hence my 11a/b rating). A couple hard moves off the deck get to easier climbing through the huecos, then back to small holds and delicate moves. Crux for me was clipping the 4th bolt off the crimps. Apr 10, 2017
Clif Clap  
 
Balancy footwork and thin crimpy hands after third hueco. I gastoned the jug by the fifth bolt with my left hand for the clip and it felt awkward and less than ideal. Pretty sustained climbing throughout however there are a couple of good rest spots. Jan 3, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
Similar in difficulty to "Good to be Awake" but of lesser quality. It's somewhat sustained once you leave the huecos and the rock in the crux area isn't the best with some obvious broken holds. Feb 24, 2012
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
Very nice line. Four bolts up, trying to pull through the slight bulge, proved very! difficult for me. Jun 6, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I believe it's 7 bolts to the shut anchor. From the ground it looks as if the bulge towards the top is going to be the business. However, I found the large hueco (3rd maybe) to be difficult and provided zero rest. Nice little knee hook inside made it easy to go left for a crimp.

Thanks Jack for providing such fun entertainment! Jan 2, 2007
duh
duh  
This was the first sport route bolted at NJC. Dec 27, 2006